Quy Nhon - Quy Nhon

Jutranji sončni vzhod nad Quy Nhơnom

Quy Nhơn, glavno mesto province Bình Định na obali osrednjega Vietnama, je mesto, ki so ga vietnamski in tuji popotniki že dolgo zapuščali kot le priročen postanek čez noč na pol poti med staroveško arhitekturo Hội An in cvetoča letovišča Nha Trang. Toda za tiste, ki vedo, je ravno to neupoštevanje tisto, zaradi česar je Quy Nhơn najredkejši dragulj: mesto na plaži v Jugovzhodna Azija neokrnjeni z zobmi množičnega turizma. Z malo prometa, brez mednarodnih verig in siestnim časom, ko se večina podjetij vsako popoldne za nekaj ur zapre za nekaj ur, ima to mesto s 457.000 prebivalci (2019) zaspan čar v majhnem mestu, ki je v popolnem nasprotju s komercializmom in razvojem drugih vietnamskih mest.

Razumeti

Obstaja veliko razlogov, da je mesto še vedno daleč od radarja mednarodnih potnikov. Pesek na plaži v središču je privlačen odtenek temno rumene barve. Ocean ni dosti boljši: to je temen odtenek, ki ga najbolje označimo kot motno zeleno. Mednarodne hrane skoraj ni. Nočnega življenja ni. Le malo ljudi govori angleško. Hoteli so zastareli in tudi novejši so precej srednje visoke kakovosti. Večino starodavnih arheoloških najdišč je težko najti, slabo jih vzdržujejo in nimajo informacij v angleščini. In regija je na stotine kilometrov od glavnih žarišč v Vietnamu, ki jih običajno obiščejo mednarodni turisti.

Tisti, ki pridejo do mesta, to ugotovijo informacij v angleščini je malo in kaj obstaja, je pogosto napačno. Redki potopisci, ki opisujejo Quy Nhơn, uporabljajo enake napačne vire, netočne informacije - pogosto smešno netočne - se ponavljajo več let in jih nikoli ne popravijo. Kar zadeva zgodovinsko ozadje, je bilo v angleščini objavljenih zelo malo o zgodovini regije, zato mednarodni obiskovalci nimajo konteksta, da bi razumeli, kaj vidijo. Vlada ni v veliko pomoč: doseg turistov v bistvu ne obstaja. Tudi Google Maps od leta 2016 ima napačne lokacije za kar nekaj podjetij in spletnih mest.

Toda Quy Nhơn dajte drugi pogled in odkrili boste čudovit cilj, skrit na očeh. Na obeh straneh obrobljena s plastmi gora, ki se umikajo v megleno razdaljo, naravna lepota obale Quy Nhơn že stoletja navdihuje pesnike in je še danes njegova najbolj očitna atrakcija. Po dolžini 5 km dolge mestne plaže teče bleščeča nova promenada. Tik ob promenadi je na ducate restavracij na prostem s čudovitim 180-stopinjskim pogledom na ocean žar, paro in dušeno morsko hrano, ki so jo pred nekaj urami ujeli lokalni ribiči, in jo postrežejo strankam, ki sedijo na majhnih plastičnih blatoh, postavljenih naključno med travo in drevesi. Na plaži ni vodnih športov, ni vodnih skuterjev, ni ravov; večina obale je nerazvita, neuporabljena in tiha, tudi na najbolj osrednjih območjih pa so največje norosti domačini, ki igrajo odbojko, in vietnamski turisti, ki tečejo - pogosto popolnoma oblečeni - v vodo.

Zunaj središča boste našli na ducate drobnih ribiških vasic in obalnih zalivov, najbolj dostopne in najbolje ohranjene ruševine Champa iz 11. stoletja v Vietnamu, panoramski razgled z gorskih cest, ki sekajo visoko nad obalnimi pečinami, in nedotaknjene plaže z duša na vidiku 10 km.

In povsod v Quy Nhơnu vas bodo ljudje očarali. Skoraj nihče ne govori več kot nekaj besed v angleščini, vendar vas bodo kot enega redkih tujih obiskovalcev nenehno ustavili odrasli in otroci, ki vas sramežljivo pozdravljajo s svojim enim frazom: "Pozdravljeni, kaj imenujete!". Njihova vrata so vedno odprta - v prenesenem pomenu in dobesedno - in če se malo sprehodite, boste na koncu povabljeni na več kav in obrokov, kot bi si kdaj privoščili v trebuh.

Usmerjenost

Zemljevid regije Quy Nhon 669px.png
Zemljevid mesta Quy Nhon 3008px 01.png

Središče Quy Nhơna leži na majhnem polotoku, ki kot zmajeva glava štrli s celine v Južnokitajsko morje. Ulica Trần Hưng Đạo je najprimernejša cesta, ki poteka od vzhoda proti zahodu in se razteza od skrajne vzhodne konice skozi središče mesta, da se poveže z avtocesto 1A in železniško postajo, letališčem in podeželjem Bình Định na severozahodu. Večina turističnih zanimivosti je južno od Trần Hưng Đạo; na severu so stanovanjska območja, ribiška industrija in industrijska pristaniška območja.

Široka avenija, ki teče od severa Quy Nhơn proti jugu Nguyễn Tất Thành razdeli mesto na polovico vzhod – zahod. Vzhodna stran je bolj razvita, z več restavracijami in zanimivostmi; na zahodni strani mesto postane manj razvito, kolikor dlje se oddaljite od Nguyễn Tất Thành. Na vznožju gore na skrajnem zahodu na južnem koncu mesta prevladujejo avtobusna postaja, prodajalne za razsuti tovor in nekaj tovarn, medtem ko severni konec ulice Phạm Ngũ Lão vodi proti zahodu v labirint umazanije širine rok. steze brez imen, ki se križajo med razmajanimi in lesenimi domovi zunaj mreže; podnevi je fascinantno območje za sprehod, ponoči pa se izogibajte: ni nevarno, je pa zagotovljeno, da se boste izgubili.

Mestna plaža je na jugovzhodnem koncu Quy Nhơn. Domačini se šalijo, da se turisti na koncu vozijo v krogih, ker ne razumejo zemljepisa ovinkane obale, zato bodite previdni: če ste na jugu, je plaža na vzhodu, če pa na zahodu, na jugu je. Glavna cesta ob plaži se imenuje Xuân Diệu na vzhodni strani in An Dương Vương na jugu. Na skrajnem jugu mesta se obmorska cesta poveže z avtocesto 1D v bližini avtobusne postaje na ulici Tây Sơn.

Meje mesta Quy Nhơn (označena s kadetsko modro na zemljevidu regije Quy Nhơn) se raztezajo daleč zunaj središča mesta, zajemajo obalne vasi, prazne plaže in bujno zeleno pokrajino. Na severozahodu ležijo letališče in glavna železniška postaja sredi riževih polj in valovitih ravnic, ki so bile v 11. stoletju imperij Champa in ameriške in južnokorejske vojaške baze.

Na obali južno od središča mesta je nekaj čudovitih zalivov in vasi, vključno z Bãi Xép, majhno ribiško vasico, priljubljeno pri mednarodnih turistih. Severovzhodno od mesta je polotok Phuong Mai, prostrano območje večinoma puste zemlje z osupljivo obalo; še vedno je dokaj nerazvit, vendar se hitro spreminja v industrijsko in luksuzno turistično cono.

Podnebje

Quy Nhơn je uvrščen med tropske savanske klime zaradi močnega monsunskega deževja od sredine septembra do sredine decembra, rahlega in redkega dežja v ostalih devetih mesecih ter temperatur, ki skoraj nikoli ne padejo pod 19 ° C (66 ° F). čas v letu.


Quy Nhon
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Povprečna maks. in min. temperature v ° C
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Povprečje 10 let od 2006 do 2015. Vir: Nacionalni centri za okoljske informacije.
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Je vroče in lepljivo med vrhunsko turistično sezono od aprila do sredine septembra, ampak poletje je veliko blažje kot Saigon na skrajnem jugu države ali celo Nha Trang 220 km (135 milj) proti jugu. Temperature v Quy Nhơnu se lahko dvignejo do toplih 37 ° C (99 ° F), vendar je večina poletnih dni običajno okoli 32 ° C (90 ° F), območje plaže pa ima hlajenje nežnega oceanskega vetra. Večeri so topli in prijetni, temperature se običajno gibljejo okoli 27 ° C (81 ° F) in nikoli ne padejo pod 25 ° C (77 ° F).

The sezona monsunov od sredine septembra do sredine decembra večino dni in noči vidi hudourniške rafalne padavine. Večina podjetij v mestu ni prizadetih in ostanejo odprta, vendar so urniki restavracij na prostem ob plaži bolj raznoliki: nekatera se ob dežju zaprejo, nekatera mize premaknejo v kuhinjske zgradbe, nekaj trdnih duš pa pogumno prenaša elemente. jesti zunaj pod improviziranimi zavetji sredi luž. Cene v mestu Quy Nhơn nimajo toliko sezonskih nihanj kot druga mesta na plaži v Vietnamu, vendar cene hotelov v času monsunov rahlo upadajo.

Sredi decembra do sredine februarja je najhladnejše obdobje. Dnevne temperature so okoli 25 ° C (77 ° F). Toda noči postanejo hladne - vsaj tisto, kar na obali osrednjega Vietnama šteje za hladno. Zvečer se temperature običajno spustijo na 21 ° C (70 ° F), domačini pa ob zelo malo hišah ali restavracijah, ki uporabljajo ogrevanje, zlomijo zimske puloverje in rute ter se tesno stisnejo ob vročih vročih večerjah. V nasprotju z zelo suhim zimskim vremenom v Saigonu in na skrajnem jugu Vietnama v teh mesecih ima Quy Nhơn občasne padavine, vendar je rahlo in pogosto so tedni naenkrat brez kapljice z neba. Zunaj prazničnega obdobja Tết je v tej sezoni malo turistov.

Od sredine februarja do sredine aprila je prijetna pomladna sezona Quy Nhơn. Temperature se čez dan dvignejo na 28 ° C (82 ° F), ponoči pa na 24 ° C (75 ° F), padavine pa ostanejo redke in rahle.

Zgodovina

Za majhno regijo, ki jo domači in tuji turisti pogosto spregledajo, sta Quy Nhơn in okoliško podeželje Bình Định v treh glavnih obdobjih vietnamske zgodovine igrala presenetljivo pomembno vlogo: Champa, Upor Tây Sơn, in Vietnamsko-ameriška vojna.

Champa

Quy Nhơn je prvič zaslovel v 11. stoletju kot glavno mesto Chamsov, avtohtoni prebivalci, ki so vladali v današnjem osrednjem Vietnamu. Območje Bình Định v 8. in 9. stoletju je bilo nerazvito zaledje daleč oddaljenega imperija Champa; središče je bilo v glavnem mestu Indrapure, tik pred današnjim Da Nangom (Đà Nẵng). Toda desetletja vojn proti Vietom na severu so močno pritisnila na imperij Champa in nekje okoli leta 1000, ko je bila njihova prestolnica opustošena, njihov kralj ubit, njihovo zlato ukradeno in njihove ženske so v surovem napadu odpeljale kot sužnji pri Viettih se je Cham odločil, da je dovolj in se množično preselil na jug.

Na koncu so se naselili 300 km po obali v današnji provinci Bình Định. Območje je s svojimi rodovitnimi deželami, dobro zaščitenim pristaniščem in veliko reko, idealno za prevoz, lahko podpiralo širijo se carstvo Cham in njegovo rastoče gospodarstvo ter okoliške gore, pa tudi dodatnih sto kilometrov oddaljenosti od Viets —Predvideni prepotrebni ukrepi dodatne varnosti. Cham je zgradil trgovsko središče in pristanišče v današnjem Quy Nhơnu in ustanovil svojo novo prestolnico Viajaya v ravnicah, 50 km varno od obale.

Hindujske ikone Shiva in makara zmaj najdete na mestih Champa zunaj Quy Nhơna. Skulpture, izrezljane v 11. do 13. stoletju, so v Musée Guimet v Parizu v Franciji.

V naslednjih nekaj stoletjih je bila Vijaya kulturna in upravna prestolnica ljudi Cham, pristaniško mesto v današnjem Quy Nhơnu pa njen gospodarski motor. Čam je prevladoval nad osrednjim Vietnamom in trgovskimi potmi Južnokitajskega morja, v zaporednih valovih vojne proti glavnim tekmecem Kmerom na zahodu in Vietom na severu pa so osvojili velike dele današnje vzhodne Kambodže in Laosa.

Toda kralji Cham so v 15. stoletju stopili predaleč, ko so v bitki proti Vietnamu skušali pridobiti kitajsko podporo. Kot maščevanje so Vijeti napadli Vijajo z ogromno mornariško floto več sto tisoč vojakov. Vietovi so požgali glavno mesto in okoliške vasi, pobili 60.000 Chamovcev, odpeljali 30.000 sužnjev in preživele kmete prisilili, da so sprejeli vietnamsko kulturo in jezik. V stoletjih po tem je preostanek Cham civilizacija je bila uničena kos za delom v uradni politiki vietnamizacije. Hindujska svetišča Chamov so bila porušena in nadomeščena z budističnimi templji, grobnice so bile zgrajene s kmetijskimi zemljišči, Chami pa so bili v glavnem izpisani iz vietnamskih zgodovinskih knjig.

Tudi danes je Cham v Vietnamu preizkusna tema, ki se dotika pravic manjšin, vladne cenzure in celo mednarodnih odnosov. Nekaj ​​tisoč Chamov, ki so še vedno v kraju Bình Định, je ujetih podstandardne življenjske razmere, brez elektrike, tekoče vode, izobraževanja ali zaščitenih pravic do zemljišč in jim je prepovedano opravljati številne svoje verske prakse. Na ulicah Quy Nhơn je malo beračev, če pa jih vidite, je velika verjetnost, da so iz teh okoliških vasi Cham. Zagrabitve zemljišč, posilstva in celo poboji vaščanov Cham, ki so jih leta 2013 dokumentirale skupine za človekove pravice, niso bili preganjani. Vlada dovoljuje zelo malo javne razprave o vprašanjih Chama, od leta 2016 pa večino informacij v vietnamskem jeziku na internetu blokirajo cenzorji.

In v čudni ironiji eden najmočnejših zgodovinskih argumentov Vietnama v svojem grenkem sporu s Kitajsko zaradi ozemlja Južnokitajskega morja ni uporabljen zaradi kršitev človekovih pravic proti Čamu. Stoletja je Cham prevladoval na številnih trgovskih poteh in otokih, ki so v središču trenutne kitajske moči, mnogo pred dokumentiranimi kitajskimi trditvami. Toda zaradi pretekle in sedanje kršitve človekovih pravic se vietnamska vlada ne želi postavljati zgodovinskih trditev Chamov.

Kot popotnik v Bình Định, najbolj vidni del preteklosti Champa naleteli boste na arheološka najdišča, predvsem stolpe, razpršena po Quy Nhơnu in okoliškem podeželju. Čeprav je bilo veliko lokacij uničenih, ima območje še vedno najbogatejšo zbirko stolpov Cham v državi. Stolpi Tháp Đôi v mestu so najbolj dostopni. Spletna mesta na podeželju so večja in popolnejša, vendar jih je tudi težje doseči, ne vsebujejo zgodovinskih informacij in so bizarno zanemarjena. Ampak, če ste samomotivirani Indiana Jones, ki se zavzema za zgodovinsko odkritje, je arheološki enodnevni izlet iz Quy Nhơna odlična zabava.

Tây Sơn

Naslednji čopič nacionalne slave za Quy Nhơn in okoliške vasi Bình Định je bil rojstni kraj Upor Tây Sơn, kmečka vstaja v 18. stoletju, ki je osvojila vladajoče fevdne gospodje na severu in na jugu, premagala kitajske napadalce in ustvarila enoten in neodvisen Vietnam. Trije bratje iz Bình Địnha, ki so vodili gibanje, so cenjeni narodni heroji, ki jih po vsem Vietnamu in diaspori slavijo zaradi vojaških zmag in podpore navadnih ljudi, podobnih Robin Hoodu.

Nguyễn Huệ, lokalni fant se je dobro odrezal

Življenje v osrednjem Vietnamu v 18. stoletju je bilo težko. Kmetje v osrednjem Vietnamu, ki so bili stisnjeni med dve družini močnih fevdnih gospodarjev - Trịnh na severu in Nguyễn na jugu, so trpeli zaradi nenehnih invazij, pretiranega davka na njihov pridelek in prisilnega vpoklica vojakov v vojnah proti Kmerjem in Sijamu.

Trije bratje iz majhne vasice Bình Định Tây Sơn so organizirali lokalne kmete proti zatiralni fevdalni vladavini. Po preudarni vojaški taktiki Nguyễn Huệ-a, sredi treh bratov, je divja skupina kmetov, kmetov in avtohtonih hribovcev v začetku sedemdesetih let prejšnjega stoletja dosegla vrsto razburjenih zmag proti močnejšim silam. Po zavzetju pristanišča Quy Nhơn leta 1773 so se odpeljali proti jugu in strmoglavili klan Nguyễn leta 1776. Nguyễn Huệ je nato svoje čete odpeljal proti severu in do leta 1786 premagal gospodar Tr lonh.

Carstvo Qing na Kitajskem, željno iztrebiti kmečki upor na svojem pragu, je podprlo Trịnh in napadlo Vietnam. Toda Nguyễn Huệ je bil preveč pameten. V bitki, ki je danes slavljena kot ena največjih v vietnamski zgodovini, je 100.000 vojakov prostovoljcev Tây Sơn na Lunino novo leto 1789 presenetilo kitajske čete (strategija, ki je bila skopirana skoraj dve stoletji pozneje, čeprav z manj uspeha). Severni Vietnam v vojni proti Južnemu Vietnamu in ZDA). Kitajski vojaki so bili ujeti nepripravljeni in pijani v petih dneh zdrobljeni in pobegnili nazaj na Kitajsko.

Nguyễn Huệ so slavili po vsej državi zaradi ustvarjanja enotni in neodvisni Vietnamin je bil z imenom razglašen za vietnamskega cesarja Cesar Quang Trung. Toda njegova vladavina je bila kratkotrajna: umrl je le tri leta kasneje v starosti 40 let. Ljudsko gibanje Tây Sơn, ki ga je vrglo v nered, je kmalu premagala fevdalna dinastija Nguyễn s podporo Francije, ki je državi vladala naslednjih 143 let. . Mnogi Vietnamci vseh političnih črt menijo, da je bila kratka vladavina Quanga Trunga izgubljena priložnost, saj so verjeli, da bi bila država, če bi živel dlje, na drugi poti: lažje se je mogla upirati tujim vplivom in močneje poudarjati modernizacijo, pravice navadnih ljudi in mirni notranji odnosi.

Muzej Quang Trung, 44 km (27 milj) severovzhodno od Quy Nhơn v kraju Tây Sơn, odlikuje Nguyễn Huệ in upor Tây Sơn. Muzej in okolica sta pomembna za nacionalno politiko, saj so številni nekdanji in sedanji voditelji - iz vseh regij države - obiskali vse od njene gradnje leta 1978, da bi se javno poklonili.

Vietnamsko-ameriška vojna

Ameriški vojaki so iskali Viet Cong v domu na podeželju Quy Nhơn, 1966. Zaradi "pacifikacije" je več kot 130.000 domačinov pobegnilo v zatočišče v begunska taborišča.

Quy Nhơn in okoliško podeželje Bình Định sta s svojim strateškim položajem pristaniškega mesta in avtocestne prometne povezave igrali izjemno vlogo v vietnamsko-ameriški vojni v šestdesetih in sedemdesetih letih prejšnjega stoletja.

Quy Nhơn je bil v zgodnjih šestdesetih letih majhno, nerazvito mesto ribičev in kmetov, kjer so se zdravstvene razmere zaradi naraščajočih napetosti v državi hitro poslabšale. Po besedah ​​novozelandskih zdravnikov v Bình Địnhu so bili domačini "podhranjeni in primitivni", "živeli so v umazanih hišah", "človeški iztrebki so bili najdeni kjer koli in povsod", plaža pa "kot velikansko stranišče". Tuberkuloza je divjala. Kanalizacija in tekoča voda za mesto ni bila ustrezna, na podeželju pa je ni bilo. Bình Định je imel le šest civilnih zdravnikov - pet v Quy Nhơnu in enega v vasi, oddaljenem 100 km (60 milj) od mesta, da bi služil milijonom prebivalcev province. Lokalno prebivalstvo ni zaupalo zahodni medicini in je svoje bolezni zdravilo s kitajskimi zeliščnimi zdravili, akupunkturo z zlatimi iglami in zlomljenim steklom (steklo je bilo uporabljeno za rezanje kože in ustvarjanje brazgotin, za katere so verjeli, da so zdravilne).

Območje je bilo nominalno pod nadzorom južnoetnamske vlade. Toda večina province Bình Định je bila skoraj dve desetletji pred začetkom vojne leglo komunistične dejavnosti. Riževa polja, goste tropske džungle in ozki gorski prelazi so ustvarili idealne položaje tako za čete Viet Konga kot za 3. divizijo Severnega Vietnama ("Rumene zvezde"), do zgodnjih šestdesetih let pa je bilo podeželje okoli Quy Nhơn središče operacij za komunistične sile.

Vključevanje tujcev se je začelo resno, ko je Nova Zelandija leta 1963 pod pritiskom ZDA poslala zdravniško ekipo k Bình Địnhu. Zaposlovanje prostovoljcev je bilo težavno - Kiviji so Nha Trang močno želeli zaradi svojih znamenitih plaž, vendar so ameriški zdravniki to že trdili - a sčasoma je več novozelandskih civilnih medicinskih ekip prispelo v Quy Nhơn in nepretrgoma ostalo do leta 1975 za zdravljenje civilnih žrtev. Leta 1967 se jim je pridružila vojaška medicinska ekipa iz Wellingtona.

Tigri in taekwondo: korejski vojaki v Quy Nhơnu

Quy Nhơn je bil baza južnokorejske pehotne divizije "Tigri". S skupno 300.000 vojaki med letoma 1965 in 1973 so bile korejske čete zadolžene za izgon vojakov Viet Conga v gorah in ravninah podeželja Bình Định. Kljub preizkusnim odnosom med ameriškim in korejskim vojaškim vodstvom so se Tigri v Quy Nhơnu usklajevali z ameriškimi vojaškimi enotami, korejske izvidniške misije pa so zagotavljale informacije o napadih ameriških vojaških ladij, ki so uničevale velika jamska omrežja Viet Conga in večino okoliških pečin in podeželja obala 15 km (9 milj) južno od Quy Nhơn.

Korejski vojaki učijo taekwondo domačine zunaj Quy Nhơna. 1965.

Korejci v Quy Nhơnu so bili znani po taekwondoju. Vsak vojak je dvakrat na dan intenzivno treniral borilne veščine. Na terenu so Tigri nosili bojne obleke, na dnu pa bele borilne veščine dobok uniformo. Taekwondo ni bil na ogled: Korejci so pogosto vdrli v majhne komunistične bunkerje in v ročnih bojih preplavili gverilce Viet Conga. Ameriški vojak je opisoval pokol, ki so ga v enem takšnih primerov storili Tigri, in dejal: "V življenju še nisem videl toliko zlomljenih vratov in zarezanih reber. Pomagali smo očistiti, kar je ostalo."

Korejske čete vaščanom Bình Định prikazujejo karto - označeno v korejščini - pasti mina v Viet Congu. 1968.

Korejci so se jezika stalno pojavljali, vendar so iznašli besedno rešitev, s katero so svoje sporočilo sporočili domačinom Bình Định: javne razstave vojakov, ki so z golimi rokami lomili opeke - ne ravno prefinjen prikaz vaščanom, kaj počnejo Tigri na terenu do bodic komunistov in njihovih simpatizerjev.

Plovili so z Okinawe, ameriški marinci so prvič pristali v Quy Nhơnu julija 1965. Pripravljeni na sovražni ogenj so bili presenečeni, ko so na plaži našli stotine žensk in otrok, ki so jih pozdravili. Američani so se takoj soočili s težavami z naravo v kraju Bình Định - žuželke, strupene kače, opice, ki kradejo hrano iz vojašnic, skrivnostni rdeče-rjavi opice, ki oddajajo glasne lajajoče zvoke - in živčni vojaki, ki niso poznali tropskih razmer, so med prebivalci Quy Nhơna sprožili smeh, ko so poskušali ustreli vsiljivke. Toda s podporo domačinov so ameriški vojaki po vseh cestah vodili bodečo žico, vsako noč uvedli policijsko uro od sončnega zahoda do sončnega vzhoda in v mestu hitro zgradili močno barikadirane garnizone.

Domačini so izkoristili gospodarsko priložnost, ki jo je prinesel prihod več sto tisoč vojakov, in večina današnjega Quy Nhơna je bila zgrajena med vojnimi leti. Pojavile so se trgovine in restavracije, v katerih so prodajali ameriško hrano, odprli so se bari, ki so ponujali poceni pijačo za vojake, sam župan pa je malo obogatel, ko je mestno hišo spremenil v zasebno bordel za ameriške častnike.

Ameriška napadalna letala so prispela v Quy Nh arrivedn leta 1965. Potem ko so se piloti močno pritožili nad slabo konstrukcijo obstoječega letališča in njegove majhne vzletno-pristajalne steze v središču mesta (blizu današnjega Coopmarta), so ameriške in korejske čete zgradile letalska baza v mestu Phù Cát 30 km (19 mi) severozahodno od Quy Nhơn. Phù Cát je med vojno nastanil več kot 100 letal in na stotisoče osebja in postal ena največjih letalskih baz med priljubljenimi postajami estradnikov, ki so nastopali za ameriške čete in gostili znane ameriške zvezde iz šestdesetih let, kot so Bob Hope, Racquel Welch in Ann-Margret. Zračna baza Phù Cát, ki je bila konec šestdesetih let danes glavno civilno letališče province Bình Định, je bila srce napalm- in defoliation-bombardiranje namenjen uničenju skrivališč Viet Conga v džunglah in gorah Južnega Vietnama.

Ameriški in južnovijetnamski vojaki si med kokosovim odmorom iščejo Viet Cong na podeželju Bình Định. Junij 1967.

"Pacificiranje" podeželja- izkoreninjenje komunističnih čet iz njihovih skritih baz - je bil glavni cilj ameriških, južnokorejskih in južnoetnamskih sil s sedežem v Quy Nhơnu. Poleg svoje vloge baze zračnih operacij, ki so se izvajale po celotnem Južnem Vietnamu, je bilo območje od leta 1965 do 1968 tudi mesto kopenskih bitk v vaseh, kot je An Khê, 80 km (50 milj) severozahodno od Quy Nh onn na avtocesti 19. , Phù Mỹ, 50 km (30 milj) severno od Quy Nhơn na obali, in Bồng Sơn, na obali 80 km (50 mi) severno od Quy Nhơn.

Ko so se boji poostrili po podeželju, so bili vaščani Bình Định prisiljeni iz svojih domov in begunska taborišča nabrekla do konca leta 1966 je imel več kot 130.000 ljudi. Največje taborišče je bilo v mestu Quy Nhơn, po ocenah 30.000 ljudi je živelo v pomanjkanju v improviziranih zavetiščih na plaži ali preprosto spalo na pesku.

Quy Nhơn se je malo spopadel, toda tri tedne pred ofenzivo Tết, januarja 1968, so severnovijetnamske in Viet Congove sile napadle mesto. Že nekaj dni so trajali ostri boji, osredotočeni okoli železniške postaje, granate, sprožene z obeh strani, so uničile večji del območja. Ameriški vojaki v mestu in južnokorejske čete na podeželju so po nekaj dneh pregnali komunistične sile, mesto pa je ostalo večinoma brez bojev do konca vojne.

Vojaki iz ZDA, Južne Koreje in Južnega Vietnama so do leta 1969 pregnali večino Viet Congov iz naseljenih območij okoli Quy Nhơna, vendar so bile komunistične sile močno zasidrane na podeželskih območjih Bình Định. Ko je ameriška zavezanost regiji oslabila, so se komunistične sile povečale in leta 1971 je Viet Cong znova vzpostavil prevlado v večini Bình Định zunaj Quy Nhơn in Phù Cát.

Jame in kemikalije

Zemeljske bitke v Bình Định so bile opazne zaradi uporabe jam. Kmetje so na poljih zunaj Quy Nh Quna zgradili na stotine jam za shranjevanje pridelkov in zalog. Pred vojno in med vojno so te jame postale zatočišče prestrašenih vaščanov in idealno skrivališče za komunistične čete in orožje.

Te jame so imele veliko vlogo med vojno, ko je ameriški častnik leta 1965 prekršil takratno uradno politiko proti uporabi plina, tako da je svojim vojakom ukazal, naj v jamo, ki je oddaljena 16 km (10 milj) severno, mečejo granate s solzivcem. iz središča mesta, da bi pregnali na stotine vojakov Viet Conga in lokalnih civilistov, ki so se skrivali v njem. Ameriška vojska se je pripravila na napad mednarodne kritike, toda podpora zmedenih novinarjev, ki še niso nasprotovali vojni ( New York Times celo objavil uvodnik v korist solzivca Quy Nhơn kot "očitno bolj humanega od katerega koli drugega učinkovitega ukrepanja"), je vodil ameriškega predsednika Lyndona Johnsona, da je svojim generalom ukazal, naj prepoved prekličejo in spodbujajo uporabo kemičnega orožja.

Kot del strategije "vietnamizacije" so se ameriške in korejske sile v Quy Nhơnu z začetkom leta 1970 postopoma zmanjševale in do leta 1973 v celoti umikale, predale so vse mestne in podeželske garnizone ter ogromno letalsko bazo v Phù Cátu borcem. Južnoetnamske sile.

Moč ljudske vojske je naraščala skozi vse leto 1974, do začetka leta 1975 pa so zmage v osrednjem visokogorju Hanoju omogočile bazo operacij, potrebnih za napad na Bình Định in razkol Južnega Vietnama. Ljudska vojska je začela napadati avtocesto 19 in letališko bazo Phù Cát v začetku marca 1975. Južna vietnamska vlada je konec marca soočena z velikimi izgubami in ukazala opustitev regije. Pokrajina je izbruhnila v kaosu. Vojaki in vaščani so obupno poskušali ubežati napadom ljudske vojske, ki je napredovala; preprečili uporabo glavne avtoceste, so se v "koloni solz" skušali prebiti po džungli in riževih poljskih poteh, da bi dosegli Quy Nhơn. Pod močnim bombardiranjem so južnovijetnamski piloti z letala, ki je prevažalo na stotine vojakov, z letala Phù Cát naglo leteli, na pistah pa so zapustili še 58 letal. Več kot 7000 preostalih južnoetnamskih vojakov je prihitelo v pristanišče Quy Nhơn in se naglo vkrcalo na ladje, ki so bežale na jug. Brez nadaljnjega odpora je Ljudska vojska hitro korakala naprej in zasegli letalsko bazo Phù Cát in mesto Quy Nhơn 31. marca 1975. Datum se vsako leto obeleži kot provincialni dan osvoboditve.

Ameriški zdravnik cepi domačine v vasi 10 km zahodno od letališke baze Phù Cát. Januar 1970.

Od konca vojne, čiščenje tal je bil glavni poudarek v Bình Định. Kot ena glavnih baz za kemično bombardiranje ZDA v Vietnamu je bilo okoli Phù Cáta in Quy Nhơna shranjenih več kot 3,5 milijona litrov agenta Orange. Kemikalije so uhajale v okolje, tla pa že desetletja ostajajo močno onesnažena, kar vodi v generacije prirojenih napak in raka, povezanih z dioksinom. Phù Cát je bil skupaj z letalskima bazama Da Nang (Đà Nẵng) in Biên Hòa leta 2010 v skupni ameriško-vietnamski preiskavi uvrščen med najbolj onesnažene vroče točke v državi, po ocenah pa bi čiščenje stalo več kot 60 milijonov dolarjev. . Potem ko so v Bình Địnhu zapravili le dva milijona ameriških sredstev, ki so jih zagotovili ZDA, in premaknili majhen sloj tal v bližini letališča na varno odlagališče, so vlade leta 2012 priredile veliko slovesnost, da bi regijo razglasile za nečistoče. A to je bila kontroverzna odločitev, saj neodvisni znanstveniki poudarjajo, da ima zemlja od leta 2016 še vedno več kot 400-krat večjo sprejemljivo raven dioksinov. Ključni odvoz za popotnike: ne igrajte se umazanije v bližini letališča.

Večina znakov vojnih let je izginila, še vedno pa ostajajo nekatere sledi, zlasti na podeželju. Ogromen uradni spomenik na polotoku Phương Mai spominja na osvoboditev Bình Định leta 1975. V muzeju Bình Định v središču mesta je razstavljeno veliko ameriškega in južnoetnamskega orožja, ki ga je zajela ljudska vojska, vključno s topniško artilerijsko puško tankov in havbic. V naselju Quy Nhơn je še vedno veliko vojaških oporišč, razvitih v vojnih letih, predvsem na območju letališča in podeželja zunaj mesta, več pa jih je v središču mesta na presenetljivo odličnih območjih blizu plaže. In na nerazvitem podeželju zunaj mesta ni redko najti majhnih kosov vojaške opreme; leta 2012 je skupna vietnamsko-ameriška ekipa celo odkrila kraj letalske nesreče in posmrtne ostanke pogrešanega ameriškega pilota, sestreljenega leta 1966.

Vstopi

Z letalom

Letališče Phù Cát
  • 1 Letališče Phù Cát (UIH IATA). Glavno civilno letališče, ki danes služi Quy Nhơnu in območju Bình Định, so leta 1966–67 zgradile ameriške zračne sile s pomočjo korejskih vojaških sil. Ph over Cát je bil z več kot 100 letali in desettisoči vojakov med glavnimi oporišči letalskih sil ZDA in Južnega Vietnama med vojno. Marca 1975, potem ko je južnovijetnamska vlada v Saigonu svojim vojakom ukazala, naj zapustijo regijo in pobegnejo na jug, je letališče zasegla vietnamska ljudska vojska, ki ga do danes še naprej uporablja kot vojaško letališče za vietnamske zračne sile. Ko je gospodarstvo raslo v osemdesetih in zgodnjih devetdesetih letih, so zgradili civilni terminal in nekdanjo vojaško bazo spremenili v komercialno letališče v regiji. Letališče Phu Cat (Q193408) na Wikidata Letališče Phu Cat na Wikipediji

Od pomladi 2016 letalski prevozniki Phù Cát opravljajo prevozniki Vietnam Airlines, VietJet Air in JetStar / JetStar Pacific s skupno osmimi dnevnimi povratnimi leti z Saigon in dve s Hanoj. Enosmerna vozovnica iz enega ali drugega mesta običajno stane 60–90 USD pri proračunskih prevoznikih in 80–110 USD pri Vietnam Airlines. Z vnaprejšnjim načrtovanjem, daljšim od enega tedna, lahko pri proračunskih prevoznikih pogosto najdete vozovnice že za 50 ameriških dolarjev.

Nekaj ​​taksijev čaka pred letališčem po vsakem letu. Če veste, da boste potrebovali taksi, je najvarneje poklicati vnaprej in vas čakajo ob prihodu. Od letališča Phù Cát do Quy Nhơna traja približno 30 minut vožnje s taksijem in stane 350.000–450.000 dongov, odvisno od končnega cilja v mestu.

A avtobus teče od letališča do središča mesta po vsakem letu. Vstopnice kupite v avtobusu in stanejo 50.000 dongov na osebo. The shuttle bus waits just outside the airport on the right-hand side when you exit the terminal. There's only one shuttle bus per flight; it's small and fills up quickly after passengers collect their luggage from the tiny baggage carousel, so to be guaranteed a spot, head outside takoj after landing and claim a seat before the crowd arrives. Bags are allowed at no extra fee, although your luggage might get messy as all the suitcases are stacked inside the shuttle bus and passengers often use them as extra seats or footrests. The shuttle bus passes for about 45 minutes through the lush green fields of the countryside, dropping people off in the small villages along the way, and ends in the city centre at the parking lot in front of the airline building at 1 Nguyễn Tất Thành street (the address is misleading; the building is at the corner of Phạm Hùng and Mai Xuân Thưởng). There's a pleasant outdoor cafe two steps from the shuttle drop-off spot where you can wait. Taxis and motorbike taxis (xe ôm) are occasionally available when the shuttle arrives, but you definitely can't count on it; if you'll need onward transportation, just ask a friendly passenger in the bus for help to call a taxi and the cab will wait for you at the drop-off spot at no additional charge.

By car or motorcycle

As the biggest city between Hội An and Nha Trang, Quy Nhơn is often used by Vietnamese and local travellers as a convenient overnight stop for coastal trips.

The scenic Highway 1D connects Quy Nhơn to Nha Trang 220 km (135 mi) to the south, offering stunning views of the coast and beaches as it wraps around mountain passes. Traffic is light, and you can easily average at least 40 km (25 mi) per hour throughout the whole journey.

Hội An lies 290 km (180 mi) to the north of Quy Nhơn on Highway 1. The road is well-maintained in most areas, but in comparison to Highway 1D heading south, traffic is heavier and the views are less impressive. The road winds on and off the coast and often passes through small villages where locals use the highway to dry seeds, which can significantly reduce the space available for driving and make the journey slow and potentially hair-raising. Most drivers won't average more than 30 km (20 mi) per hour.

Z vlakom

Diêu Trì train station

Quy Nhơn is served by the Diêu Trì train station on the main Vietnamese north-south reunification line.

The station lies 13 km (8 mi) to the northwest of the city. A taxi between the city centre and Diêu Trì station costs 120,000–175,000 dong. A local bus runs between the station and the city centre once per hour and costs 3,000 dong per ticket.

In addition to the main Diêu Trì station, there is also a much smaller station in the city centre just off Lý Thường Kiệt street near the Quang Trung roundabout. The small train between Diêu Trì and the central station takes 25 minutes and costs 30,000 dong. Not all north-south trains from Diêu Trì have connections to the station in central Quy Nhơn, but if your train does, it's a cheap and convenient alternative to a taxi.

Seats on the main north-south national train routes can usually be purchased on the day of travel at Diêu Trì station, but beds, particularly the soft beds in the four-person berths, sell out frequently; at high times, it's best to book a week or more in advance.

Approximate prices and trip length:

  • Da Nang (Đà Nẵng): 6 hours. Hard seat 150,000 dong. Soft seat 200,000. Hard bed 250,000.
  • Nha Trang: 4 hours. Hard seat 110,000 dong. Soft seat 145,000. Hard bed 175,000. Soft bed 210,000.
  • Saigon: 13 hours. Hard seat 300,000–555,000 dong. Soft seat 350,000–700,000. Hard bed 550,000–735,000. Soft bed 650,000–1,000,000.

Z avtobusom

The main bus station is at the base of the mountains on the southwest edge of the city. The entrance is on the west side of Tây Sơn street between Cần Vương and Vô Liêu streets. The location is convenient for buses, providing direct access to the main highway, but it's a sparsely-inhabited industrial area of town. If it's your first glimpse of Quy Nhơn, don't worry: the city is veliko nicer than what you see when you arrive.

Tickets can be purchased in advance or on the day of travel from the several bus company offices in the covered area of the ramshackle station. In the week before and several weeks after the Tết holiday, advance bookings are essential, and even then buses might be fully sold out or cancelled. But at most other times, tickets are almost always available for next-day travel and quite often for same-day travel. Tickets purchased in Quy Nhơn tend to cost slightly less than the reverse route purchased in a bigger city.

Quy Nhơn's small-town fairness extends to bus tickets. In contrast to other Vietnamese cities, you won't be charged more because you're a foreigner: as long as you buy directly from the bus company ticket window in the Quy Nhơn bus station, you'll pay the same price as locals.

Quy Nhơn is hundreds of kilometres from other major cities, and bus companies offer many different options for covering the distance: the price, length of journey, quality of bus, and number of stops vary considerably between different buses. In general, direct buses from Quy Nhơn are 25,000–75,000 dong more expensive and can be a few hours faster than those which make local stops. Overnight trips tend to be faster and more reliable in their estimated arrival times than daytime journeys. As in other cities in Vietnam, bus companies in Quy Nhơn are notorious for driving at breakneck speeds through the countryside. But they still invariably end up arriving later than the very optimistic time estimates they give you. Be prepared that your bus ride might end up taking at least an hour or two longer than promised... and maybe a lot more.

As a rough guide, the trip length and typical prices for one-way tickets from Quy Nhơn are:

Obiti

Z motorjem

Quy Nhơn is a pleasant city for driving your own motorbike. Traffic is slow and light, particularly when compared to bigger cities such as Saigon, Da Nang ali celo Nha Trang. Cars are much less common than in the bigger Vietnamese cities, which also helps make motorbike driving smooth and safe. Most streets don't have—or need—traffic lights. Nowhere within the city is more than 15 minutes away by motorbike. And parking is free everywhere.

For exploring the surrounding areas, a motorbike is even more ideal. The kilometres of empty beaches north and south of the centre, the mountains on both sides of the bay, and the surrounding countryside and archaeological sites can all be reached very easily in day trips from the city.

Ti lahko rent motorbikes from all hotels in the city. Many hotels rent the bikes out, and those which don't always have connections with a bike renter. You have the choice of automatic transmission or semi-automatic (left-foot gear shift, but no clutch needed). The price should be at most 100,000 dong per day; anything more means that the hotel—or the hotel staffer helping you—is getting a nice commission from your payment.

S taksijem

Taxis are generally ordered by phone. The taxi call-centre operators speak no English and probably won't understand your pronunciation of the street names when you request pick-up, so the most effective strategy is to ask a Vietnamese-speaker to make the call on your behalf.

Taxis can also be hailed on the street, but there aren't many empty cabs driving around. Standing on the street and waving in vain at full taxis does tend to attract locals, though, who might kindly call a cab for you.

A typical short ride within the city costs 15,000–30,000 dong. From the far east side to the west costs about 60,000.

  • Sun Taxi, 84 56 368 6868. Largest taxi service in Quy Nhơn. Fare: 5,000 dong for the first 500 metres, 11,300 for each additional kilometre up to 30.5 km, 9,300 for each kilometre after 30.5 km.

S kolesom

Quy Nhơn is pleasant for bicycling as the city is fairly flat and traffic is light.

The main promenade runs directly next to the beach, and with views of the ocean and mountains, a perfectly flat road and very little traffic, it makes for a delightful little jaunt. Bicycles are also great for day trips to explore beaches and archaeological sites in the surrounding area which are too far for walking.

Bicycles can be rented at a few hotels, but bike rentals aren't common and most hotels won't be able to help you. Cafe Ô Mê Ly, a slightly shady karaoke club on the west side of the Coopmart shopping complex on Lê Duẩn street, has a small street-side business offering a few bicycles for rent, including tandem (two-person) bicycles. Prices are negotiable; locals pay 20,000 dong for an hour and 100,000 for a day.

Peš

On the one hand, Quy Nhơn is a wonderful city for walking. Traffic is very light, and crossing the street isn't the life-threatening hazard that it is in the bigger Vietnamese cities. People are friendly and constantly greet foreigners with "Hello". And many of the lanes are very picturesque: old wooden houses, street vendors on every block, peeks of local family life visible through the always-open doors, and sidewalks lined with trees and Vietnamese flags. Additionally, the well-maintained beach promenade is beautiful for a stroll and quite often nearly empty of other people.

And if you're just going for an ocean holiday and will stay at a hotel close to the beach, you can definitely get by on foot and with the occasional taxi.

On the other hand, although it's not a huge city, Quy Nhơn is quite spread out, and winding streets can make walking times slightly longer than what you'd expect given the as-the-crow-flies distances. Even at a brisk pace, it could be 20–30 minutes to walk from the central areas to the beach, while a walk from the far southwest end all the way to the eastern tip takes about 90 minutes. And the beaches and archaeological sites in the surrounding countryside are definitely too far for any walking trips.

Tukaj je public transport of any type that is useful for getting around within the city.

Bottom line: if you want to explore the city and don't fancy walking for hours, plan on taxis or your own motorbike. But if strolling for hours as you explore quaint streets sounds like fun, then it's a fabulous walking city.

Z cyclo

Quy Nhơn cyclo driver and passenger

Cyclos have fallen out of favour, but there are still more than 100 full-time cyclo drivers in the city.

In contrast to bigger cities where the cyclos are often marketed to foreigners, cyclos in Quy Nhơn are mainly used by locals. Customers are often either older residents who don't drive or street vendors transporting food and goods cheaply. The drivers are all men and are usually older than 45.

Because of their local customer base, the cyclo drivers generally wait for customers in the main streets of the city rather than at the beach. They often congregate near local markets; for example, there are usually a handful waiting at the southern end of the central market at Tôn Đức Thắng and Trường Chinh streets.

Drivers speak no English, but they're expert in the geography of the city, so to get started, just point on the map to your destination or show them its address. Cene po dogovoru. A short ride of 1–1.5 km costs locals about 7,000 dong. Most cyclo drivers in Quy Nhơn aren't used to foreign customers. They might initially request higher prices from you than they offer to locals, but in contrast to other Vietnamese cities, they're not mercenary: a smile and a little friendly bargaining will quickly get them down to local levels.

By motorbike taxi

Nekaj xe ôm (motorbike taxi) drivers exist, but in contrast to cities such as Saigon, motorbike taxis are fairly rare and cannot be relied on as a normal mode of transport.

Although full-time xe ôm drivers can be quite difficult to find, enterprising locals will often offer foreigners a quick ride for a fee or even for free.

You negotiate xe ôm fares in advance before starting the ride. The price should be a slight discount to what a taxi would cost for the same route, but drivers often initially ask foreigners high prices for small trips, e.g. 60,000–100,000 dong for a trip that should cost 20,000.

Z avtobusom

Obstajajo no local bus routes of any real use serving the streets of the central city.

For trips to the bays and coast south of the city centre, there is a bus between Quy Nhơn and Chí Thanh which stops in Bãi Xép, the tiny fishing village which has become popular among Western tourists. From Bãi Xép to the city, the bus route passes along the coast and north over the mountain into Quy Nhơn, heads past the main bus station and makes several stops along the beach promenade before ending on the west side of the Coopmart shopping complex. It runs hourly from 05:30 to 17:30.

Glej

Plaže

  • Bãi Xép beach and village. With deserted beaches, hilly islands close to shore, and round wooden fishing boats bobbing in the water, the tiny village of Bãi Xép 10 km (6 mi) south of the city centre has become a popular destination for international tourists looking for seaside tranquililty. It's part of the city, but the little hamlet is a world of development away from even sleepy Quy Nhơn's decided lack of buzz and feels more like a remote island than a suburb. The access road to the village is a tiny lane running down the hill from Highway 1D. At the bottom, the lane splits into two one-metre wide passages between the villagers' houses: the left leads to the cove used by the fishermen, while the right takes you to a secluded beach and two guesthouses run by and for foreigners. At the south end of the Bãi Xép cove past a fence is the only luxury hotel in the region, the Avani Beach Resort; it shares the same tranquil waters and postcard view of the nearby islands, but its end of the beach is private and off-limits to non-guests.
    Running over the mountains and high above the shore, the road between Quy Nhơn and Bãi Xép has jaw-dropping views, and there are many points along the highway where you can stop to take panoramic pictures of the city and the coast. North and south of Bãi Xép are many bays below the highway. The most popular are the bucolic hamlets of Bãi Bàng and Bãi Bầu, 5 km (3 mi) south of Bãi Xép, but there are dozens of little coves which you can explore between the jagged rocks along the entire stretch of coast.
  • Beach promenade and city beach.
    Quy Nhơn beach promenade
    The nicely-maintained beach promenade stretches almost without interruption for 5 km (3 mi) along the southeast coast of Quy Nhơn city. Bordered on both sides by layers of mountains receding into the hazy distance, the natural beauty of the city's waterfront setting has inspired poets for centuries. The contrast to more developed beach resorts such as Nha Trang is stark. Much of the Quy Nhơn beach is unused and empty even in peak tourist season. There are no commercial watersports, boat rides, surfing or tours. In the more central areas 1 km on either side of Nguyễn Tất Thành street, locals play football (soccer) and volleyball on the beach, Vietnamese tourists run (often fully clothed) into the water, and families enjoy picnics. The few vendors scattered along the promenade selling food and drinks to local tourists are low-key and don't aggressively tout their wares. In the central beach area, a few hotels and private individuals offer lounge chairs in the summer months. A tiny semi-permanent amusement park in a grassy area next to the beach offers carousel rides primarily for kids.
    With grainy sand a dark shade of yellow, slightly murky water, no international food options, no nightlife, a sleepy atmosphere, and a notable lack of tourist infrastructure in general, Quy Nhơn is far from a typical beach paradise... which is precisely the draw of this beautiful setting for those looking to escape the mass tourism of big resorts.
Bãi Kỳ Co on Phương Mai peninsula

Sandy solitude

Since 2005, provincial authorities have promoted the barren Phương Mai Peninsula as an economic development zone. They completed the longest sea bridge in Vietnam, constructed a highway down the spine of the 20 km (12 mi) long peninsula, built infrastructure, and even meticulously planted thousands of trees and bushes. Happy with their work, they marketed it to investors as a site for oil refineries, industrial factories, and tourist resorts, but nature had other ideas. It turns out there's too much sand... and it never stops coming. High winds from ocean storms push the sand over the land, covering the roads, the vegetation, the factories and any people caught out in the gusty weather. A decade after completion of the bridge, much of the peninsula is still undeveloped, many investment projects were cancelled or delayed, and the factories constructed must frequently clean out the invading sand. The province tried to fight back—workers shovel the deserted highway clean, and projects have been designed to better withstand the sand onslaught—but development has been slow and the empty peninsula has the eerie feeling of a "build it and they will come" scheme gone bad.

Sand, sand, sand

What's tough news for the economic development zone is good news for travellers. The beach on the east side is enormous and much of the northern half is empty of people or development. It's hard to find such a vast stretch of undeveloped and desolate beach so close to a city anywhere in Southeast Asia. It's a fortunate mix of just enough development to make it easy to reach but not enough to blemish the pristine coast. That situation won't last long—as of 2016, development of luxury tourism sites, oil refineries, bottling plants and lumber factories is underway—so take advantage while you can: hop on a motorbike, take a drive over the bridge, and enjoy in solitude the never-ending piles of sand.

  • Phương Mai peninsula. The Phương Mai peninsula (see sidebar) is the easiest—and probably only—place in Vietnam to enjoy kilometres of beach in utter solitude. The beach on the northeast side of the peninsula is almost completely empty for over 10 km. Just leave your motorbike anywhere you like on the side of the highway and scramble over the 300-metre wide sand dunes to reach the coast. Take off your shoes and enjoy: in dry season, the pale-yellow to crystal-white sand squeaks pleasantly underfoot. Small sand hills line the coast; those who manage to scale their slippery heights are rewarded with views of the mountains in the north and of the never-ending coast stretching off to the horizon in the south. There are no stores and no shade, so be sure to take water and lots of sunscreen.
    In contrast to the rolling sand dunes of the northern part of the peninsula, the shore at Bãi Kỳ Co in the south-central area is sharply framed by rocky boulders and stunning cliffs. Jump from the 10-metre (30-foot) cliffs into the clear blue ocean, play in pools of fresh water trapped amongst the inland boulders, swim in salt water lakes connected by underwater passageways to the ocean, hop in a wooden boat for a one-hour jaunt with fishermen to explore the islands just off the coast, or scramble up the jagged cliffs closest to the shore for perfect photo opportunities of the ocean and coast. If you're really adventurous, hike the trail through the mountain forests: the three-hour trek from the top down to the beach takes you through spectacular boulder passes and mountain creeks. And anywhere you are, you can't miss the largest Buddha statue in Vietnam, the 30-metre (100-foot) golden statue constructed in 2014 of Avalokiteśvara, the embodiment of infinite compassion of all Buddhas, looking out over the water.
    Ampak Bãi Kỳ Co is changing rapidly: after years of plans deferred and broken, luxury development began at the end of 2015. An 18-hole golf course drafted by Jack Nicklaus's design company had a partial opening in February 2016 and is the anchor of Hanoi-based FLC Group's drive to build Vietnam's first seven-star luxury resort in the area around Eo Gió beach. So enjoy the area while it's still in its natural state... and still open to the public.
    The mountains on the mainland just to the north of the peninsula have several attractions which are popular with local Bình Định tourists. One kilometre north on Highway 640 past the junction with Highway 19 is the Buddhist Temple Chùa Ông Núi. Founded in 1702, the temple sits on the mountain to the west of the highway and has stunning views of the coast and the ocean. Near the temple closer to the shore is a massive stone and metal sculpture which commemorates the capture of Bình Định by People's Army's forces in March, 1975. Behind the cafe on the road opposite the sculpture, a steep boulder walkway carries an odd mix of selfie-shooting locals and gruff fishermen down to a picturesque cove crammed with round wooden trawlers sandwiched between the water and the cliffs.
    The easiest way to explore the peninsula from Quy Nhơn is to rent a motorbike and drive over via the Thị Nại bridge. From the city centre, take Nguyễn Tất Thành to Trần Hưng Đạo. At the large intersection, head north on Võ Nguyên Giáp. You'll cross four small bridges as you pass through industrial parks and agricultural fields on all sides. After 3 km, the road bends east and you'll see the 2.5-kilometre long Thị Nại bridge stretching forlornly across the sea. At least, hopefully you'll see it: the crossing is notorious for being covered in fog and strong winds even when the city is sunny, so take care when on the bridge not to get blown over by the gusts of air, water and sand. After reaching the peninsula and passing a petrol station on the right, you'll reach a confusing series of roundabouts; most head to factories and the not-yet developed areas, so be careful to follow the signs for Highway 19B. Once you're on Highway 19B, it's a straight line north for 20 km (12 mi) to the top of the peninsula.

Cham towers

  • Tháp Bánh Ít (Banh It Cham Towers, Silver Towers), Đại Lộc village, Tuy Phước district (halfway between Quy Nhơn and Phù Cát airport). Daily 07:00–11:00 and 13:30–17:00. Eden od best large sites of Cham ruins still surviving, and certainly the most accessible and best restored in the countryside, Tháp Bánh Ít (Banh It Cham Towers) is a cluster of four towers built in the 10th–11th centuries on a hilltop overlooking the river 17 km (10 mi) northwest of Quy Nhơn. The Cham constructed the Bánh Ít site to fit in harmony with the environment, and while not as enormous as ancient sites in Angkor ali Borobudur, the site even today is a beautiful medley of rolling countryside hills, river and towers. Although the site had nothing to do with silver, early French colonialists named Champa sites after minerals, and their name of "Silver Towers" stuck and is still used today by many foreign sources. The most common name used for the towers by the Vietnamese, Bánh Ít, is also the name of the local sweet cake specialty.
    Approaching from the east, the first tower is the 13-metre (42-foot) gate. Up the hill from the gate are the three larger towers. The biggest is 20 metres (65 feet) high, with intricate carvings of humans, birds, flowers, and the elephant god Ganesa and the monkey god Viyu in dancing pose. The architectural style is unique among Cham ruins for the vertical columns and grooved tiles, the use of sandstone for the roof edges, and false doors topped by soaring arches in the shape of spears. The site held many statues, but sadly, most of them were shipped off to Europe by French colonialists in the late 19th century. The most impressive of the artworks, an intricately-carved 11th-century statue of a three-eyed Shiva seated on a lotus, is held in the Musée Guimet in Pariz, while copper statues of Genesha, Uma, and Brahma vanished into private French collectors' hands in the early 20th century.
    If you're feeling particularly adventurous, the undeveloped countryside around the main towers is full of small centuries-old ruins. Although only the four complete towers survive, the area had many more buildings, and poorly-funded archaeological surveys haven't had the resources to completely investigate the grounds. Small fragments are hidden in many places in the undergrowth, and, with luck, you can even find complete corner pieces of several buildings overgrown by trees, particularly to the east of the main site. But don't disturb anything: you're allowed to explore the ruins, but it's illegal to take, sell, export, or damage any historical relics in Vietnam.
    The Bánh Ít site is just east of the junction between Highway 1A and Highway 19. Halfway between Quy Nhơn and Phù Cát airport, you can easily combine a visit with a trip to or from the airport. As with all sites outside the city centre, driving your own car or motorbike is the most convenient transportation option as it gives you the flexibility to explore the surrounding countryside. A taxi from the city takes 15–30 minutes to the towers and costs about 100,000 dong from the north centre of the city and up to 200,000 dong if coming from the southwest beach side. Two bus routes, T4 and T6, run infrequently from stops in the city at the Quang Trung roundabout and Tháp Đôi Towers, leaving you a 20-minute walk from the towers at the junction of Highway 1A and Highway 19. The bus costs 10,000 dong, but if you're tight on time, stick to a taxi: the bus schedule is infrequent and even the scheduled buses often fail to appear.
    Another transportation option is the airport shuttle bus which services arriving and departing flights. From the airport, the shuttle bus travels south down Highway 1A. If you stand on the west side of the road, you can hail the bus. Tickets normally cost 50,000 dong from the airport, but if there's space in the shuttle, the driver will pick you up and take you to the city for 25,000 dong from the towers.
    Entry to the towers is 10,000 dong and parking 5,000 dong, but the site is little visited and it's possible you might enter and never see anyone or be asked for money.
  • Tháp Dương Long (Duong Long Cham Towers) (50 km (30 mi) northwest from Quy Nhơn). Daily 07:00–11:00 and 13:30–17:00. Three Cham towers built in the late 12th century, about 50 km (30 mi) outside Quy Nhơn. These impressive towers are the tallest Cham structures still remaining in Vietnam: the centre tower is 24 m (78 ft) high, while the two outside towers each measure 22 m (72 ft). The bodies of the towers are made from bricks, while the bases are built from massive carved boulders. Patterns carved into the bases show a glimpse of ancient Cham culture: flowers, gods, elephants, large human breasts, dragons. The towers were in the middle of a civic area, which now can only be seen in the ruins and artefacts strewn about on the surrounding grounds. The site feels abandoned and wild. Money for preservation and restoration was cut in the late 2000s, and except for the occasional presence of a caretaker, the site is utterly empty and you'll probably be alone as you explore the area. There is no information at the site.
    Najem your own motorbike is the cheapest and most convenient transportation option. A taxi from the city costs 500,000–600,000 dong one-way. There is no bus. The towers can be combined with a day trip to the Quang Trung museum 10 km to the west.
    Entry ticket—when the caretaker is present and awake—costs 3,000 dong.
Tháp Đôi Cham Towers
  • Tháp Đôi Cham Towers (Thap Doi Cham Towers, "The Twin Towers"), Trần Hưng Đạo (between Đặng Xuân Phong and Tháp Đôi). Daily 08:00–11:00 and 13:00–18:00. 2 km from the city centre, the Tháp Đôi are the most accessible Cham towers v državi. The Hindu Cham people started construction on the two 20-metre (65 ft) towers in the 11th century after establishing Vijaya as the capital of their empire and the port city of Quy Nhơn as its economic engine. Three towers were planned, but for unknown reasons, only two exist, and the site became known to the Vietnamese as Tháp Đôi ("The Twin Towers"). Unusually for Cham architecture, the Twin Towers eschew the traditional multi-storey square construction in favour of a large rectangular base topped by a carved pyramid structure. The towers were built from brick in the typical Cham style in which pieces were tiled closely together and then baked into a solid block, with the unusual addition of crushed stone for support. The outer structure and external sculptures were made from sandstone. The art and architecture share many characteristics with Angkor sites in present-day Cambodia thanks to the frequent exchange—in both peace and war—between Champa and the Khmer kingdom. This later Cham period is particularly characterized by the intricate and ornate animal statues and carvings which the Cham adopted after moving their capital to Bình Định. The holy bird Garuda rests on top of the vegetation-covered roofs, protecting the towers from evil forces, while below are detailed carvings of giant lotus bases, elephants, lions, monkeys and humans dancing. The towers were restored in the 1980s and 1990s with help from a Polish archaeological team, and the area around them has been developed into a small park, with trees and grass surrounding the archaeological site and shielding it from the traffic outside (ironically, one of the only noisy stretches of road anywhere in the city is Trần Hưng Đạo street directly in front of the towers). The neighbourhood just to the north of the towers is a pleasant and quiet residential area on the banks of the river, with a few local cafes and restaurants. Entry ticket costs 20,000 dong per person as of 2019. Unlike the Cham towers in the countryside, ticket collectors at Tháp Đôi are always present and awake, so you'll definitely be asked to pay.

Budistični templji

  • Chùa Hiển Nam, 3 Trần Thị Kỷ (between Diên Hồng and Hàm Nghi), 84 56 352 0888. Medium-sized Buddhist temple a four-minute walk from Coopmart just west of Nguyễn Tất Thành Street. Several of the buildings and statues are under re-construction in 2016, but the grounds and temple are open to visitors daily from morning to evening.
  • Chùa Long Khánh, 141 Trần Cao Vân (main entrance between Tăng Bạt Hổ and Phan Bội Châu). Large and very important Buddhist temple in Quy Nhơn city and Bình Định province. The temple was first constructed in the early 1700s, but nothing of the original structure remains. The current main building was erected in 1956, and the Buddha statue and lotus pond were completed in 1972. The 1.7 m (5.6 ft) high, 700 kg (1,500 lb) bell was believed to have been cast in 1805. Inside is a statue of Avalokiteśvara, the embodiment of infinite compassion of all Buddhas, who uses his thousand arms to reach out to help the suffering masses. To the side of the temple is a 17 m (56 ft) bluestone statue of Amitābha (Vietnamese: A-di-đà), the celestial Buddha, resting upon a 5 m (16 ft) lotus base. Entrance is free every day from early morning until late evening.
Chùa Minh Tịnh
  • Chùa Minh Tịnh, 35 Hàm Nghi (between Võ Lai and Ngô Mây). Large and active Mahayana Buddhist pagoda complex in the city centre a 10-minute walk west from Coopmart. Founded in 1917 outside the city, it was moved in the 1960s to its current location in order to make room for the expansion of the airport during the Vietnam-American war. The well-maintained temple, which is surrounded by a spacious and peaceful grounds with many colourful statues, is an active and working centre of spiritual studies, community outreach, charity activities. Visitors welcome daily from morning to evening.
Chùa Phổ Minh on the riverbank in the north of the city
  • Chùa Phổ Minh, Lê Thanh Nghị (northern side of riverside quay, 50 m (160 ft) east of the bridge). Impressive and little-visited Buddhist temple of 800 m² (8,600 ft²) set on tranquil riverside grounds of 1,800 m² (19,000 ft²). Work began on the site in 2011. Soon after, five workers were gravely injured in a major accident when the concrete and steel of the third floor collapsed. Construction was suspended, but with the prayers of the monks and the enthusiastic support of the injured workers, the community overcame its grief and the temple was finished in 2013.
  • Chùa Tâm Ấn Tự, 58 Ngô Quyền (entrance at southwest corner with Tăng Bạt Hổ). Active Mahayana Buddist temple on a tranquil 2,000 m² (21,000 ft²) site. A small hut on the grounds began serving as a spiritual home for monks in the 1920s, but was destroyed during war activities in the 1940s. The temple was restarted under new spiritual advisers in 1955, and the structure was built out very, very slowly. After 40 years of glacial progress, construction on the current temple picked up pace in the 1990s and was finished in 1995. The well-maintained temple boasts a 150-kg (330-lb) bell. Open to visitors daily from morning to evening.
Tượng Phật đôi, the tallest Buddha statue in Vietnam, towers over the coast on the Phương Mai Peninsula.
  • Chùa Tịnh xá Ngọc Nhơn, 999 Trần Hưng Đạo (100 m (330 ft) west of busy intersection with Đống Đa). Buddhist temple in the northwest of the city. Nestled amidst the trees and set back against the mountain, the temple's 2,500 m² (27,000 ft²) grounds are a surprisingly peaceful contrast to the bustle of the heavily-trafficked street outside. It was built in 1959, and was restored from 1995 to 1999. Open to visitors daily from morning to evening.
  • Chùa Trúc Lâm, 512 Trần Hưng Đạo (at corner of Đoàn Thị Điểm), 84 56 381-2577. Well-maintained six-storey Buddhist temple in the northern end of the city centre. Open to visitors daily from morning to evening.
  • Tượng Phật đôi, Eo Gió, Nhơn Lý (from Quy Nhơn city centre, follow directions to Phương Mai Peninsula; once on the peninsula, the statue is off Highway 19B at Bãi Kỳ Co cove on the south-central east coast). Towering above the ocean on the Phương Mai Peninsula, this 30-m (100-ft) golden Avalokiteśvara, the embodiment of infinite compassion of all Buddhas, is the tallest Buddha statue in Vietnam. Constructed in 2014, the base is designed to hold the ashes of 8,000 local families.

Christian churches

  • Giáo xứ Hòa Ninh, 128 Nguyễn Huế (near intersection with Phạm Ngọc Thạch).
  • Ghềnh Ráng Church, 21 Tây Sơn (near intersection with Mai Hắc Đế).
  • Quy Nhơn Cathedral (Nhà thờ chính tòa Quy Nhơn), 122 Trần Hưng Đạo (near junction with Lê Thánh Tông), 84 56 382 3017. First built as a local parish in 1892, the church underwent a massive expansion in the 1930s when it became the seat of the regional Catholic Diocese. The 47-m (155-ft) spire houses a 1,800-kg (2-ton) bell donated in 1962 in Catholic outreach efforts by the predominantly Polish congregation of St. Pancratius Church of Chicago. During the war years in the 1960s, the Quy Nhơn Cathedral served as a refuge for displaced locals, and as a place of worship for American soldiers.
  • Quy Nhơn Evangelical Church (Chi Hội Quy Nhơn), 71 Hai Bà Trưng (10 m (33 ft) west of intersection with Lê Lợi), 84 56 382 4791.

Museums and buildings

  • Bình Định Museum (Bảo Tàng Bình Định), 26 Nguyễn Huế (between Lê Lợi and Lê Thánh Tông). Tu–Sa 07:00–11:30 and 13:30–17:00. Located in the east of the centre near the Municipal People's Administrative buildings, this small building has a large collection of Cham artefacts making it more interesting than you'd expect for a small provincial museum. The museum's Cham collection has grown significantly over the last two decades as new expeditions jointly conducted with Belgian and Japanese archaeological teams and Polish restoration experts have excavated and preserved new pieces in the province. The museum, founded in 1980, also houses several American weapons, including a tank and howitzer artillery guns, which were captured in the province by the Vietnamese government in 1975. Oddly, the weapons are haphazardly interspersed amidst Cham artefacts, both inside the museum and in the surrounding outdoor gardens. An additional highlight of the museum, the currency collection, is continuing to expand as scholars work with Chinese experts to survey the artefacts. But unfortunately, the museum itself is underfunded, poorly maintained, and has very little useful information in English. Entry ticket 5,000 dong.
  • Municipal People's Government Offices, 30 Nguyễn Huệ (at corner of Lê Lợi). Imposing and stern complex of several multi-storey buildings housing the city-government offices built in classic communist architectural style. The largest of the buildings towers over the surrounding neighbourhood and is visible from the beach. Its stern architecture is the butt of many popular jokes among the less reverent locals. The complex is lit bright at night with white and red lights. No organized tours are available, but the office workers are happy, albeit surprised, to give a tour from bottom to top if you ask.
  • Quang Trung Museum (Bảo tàng Quang Trung), Phú Phong, Tây Sơn District (44 km (27 mi) northeast of Quy Nhơn on Highway 19/19B). Daily 07:00–11:00 and 13:30–17:00. Emperor Quang Trung, also known as Nguyễn Huệ, is the most celebrated of the Tây Sơn brothers, rebels who led a peasant uprising in the 18th century which conquered feudal houses in the north and south and created a unified and independent Vietnam. He's a revered national hero who was—and still is— celebrated throughout Vietnam and the diaspora for his military victories and support of the common people. Quang Trung and his two brothers were born in Tây Sơn village, and the town's museum honoring him and his family is very important in national politics, with many past and present leaders having visited since its 1978 construction to pay their respects publicly. For Vietnamese—in Vietnam and in the diaspora—who spent their childhood learning his legends, the museum can be very interesting. But for foreigners who have never heard of him, it's less exciting. V kompleksu se nahajajo predmeti iz bitk ter umetnost, kostumi in izvirni dokumenti iz obdobja Tây Sơn. Toda zbirka je slabo prikazana, v angleščini je malo podatkov, lokacija pa je dovolj oddaljena od središča mesta, da se splača samostojno, če vas Quang Trung že zelo zanima. Ampak, če ste že na območju, kjer raziskujete ruševine Cham ali potujete med Quy Nhơnom in Pleikujem, je teren zelo lep in vsak mesec je na voljo več borilnih veščin. Posebni dogodki so vsako leto 5. januarja, na obletnico bitke pri Ngọc Hồi leta 1789, ko je Quang Trung premagal invazijske kitajske čete, potem ko je svoje kmečke čete prosil, naj se "borijo, da bodo naši lasje dolgi, boj, da nam ostanejo črni zobje".
    Najem lastnega motorja je najcenejši in najprimernejši način za dostop do muzeja. Taksi iz mesta stane 400.000–500.000 dongov v eno smer. Ni avtobusa. Muzej lahko kombinirate z enodnevnim izletom do stolpov Dương Long Cham, ki ležijo 10 km vzhodno.
    Vstopnica 10.000 dong.

Borilne veščine v Bình Định: rojstvo, smrt in ponovno rojstvo

Kip borilnih veščin na promenadi ob plaži

Bình Định je že bil srce borilnih veščin v Vietnamu od 15. stoletja. Po lokalnih legendah so tehnike najprej razvili kmetje, ki so se morali braniti pred invazijami, tatovi in ​​divjimi gorskimi živalmi v osamljeni in brezzakonski regiji. Borbene veščine so se izpopolnjevale in prenašale skozi generacije, 300 let kasneje pa so bili borilni umetniki Bình Định vojaški vojaki, ko je lokalni heroj Nguyễn Huệ v 18. stoletju združil državo. V zahvalo je po tem, ko je postal cesar, organiziral sistem, ki ga financira država, s šolami, tekmovanji, certificiranjem in uradnimi vojaškimi vlogami.

Toda tisti dnevi slave so bili kratkotrajni. Po smrti Nguyễna Huệja leta 1792 je nova fevdalna dinastija iztisnila vse sledi borilnih veščin Bình Địnha. Šole so bile zaprte, tekmovanja pa prepovedana desetletje za desetletjem so se vsaka naslednja vladajoča sila - cesarska dinastija Nguyễn, francoski kolonialisti, Južni Vietnam in Severni Vietnam - vsi bali legendarne moči bojevnikov borilnih veščin Bình Địnha. Toda borci so nadaljevali z usposabljanjem, po potrebi se skrivaj skrivali v budističnih templjih in svojo tradicijo prenašali v naslednjih 200 letih. Do konca 20. stoletja, ko se je uradni odnos do vietnamske kulturne tradicije segreval (in borci borilnih veščin naj bi bili manj očitni za nacionalno obrambo), Borilne veščine Bình Định so prišle iz sence. Šole in tekmovanja so se znova začela, mednarodni uspeh lokalnih borcev pa je privedel do ponovnega vzpona priljubljenosti. Do leta 2012 so se časi toliko spremenili, da je deželna vlada znova začela podpirati borilne veščine tako kot dejavnost za domačine kot turistično atrakcijo.

Današnja borilna veščina danes cveti. V vaseh, ki obkrožajo Quy Nhơn, se je odprlo na ducate majhnih šol, pri čemer vsaka ponuja svoj pogled na enega od dveh glavnih stilov Bình Định, boj osebja in boj s praznimi rokami. Muzej Quang Trung v počastitev Nguyễn Huệ vsako leto priredi slavnostno borilno veščino na obletnico vietnamskega poraza napadalnih kitajskih sil leta 1789. Ločeni dvoletni festival borilnih veščin in tekmovanje, ki se je začelo leta 2006, združuje na tisoče borcev iz vsega Vietnama in iz tujine (zlasti Rusija je pripravila več visokokakovostnih borcev iz šole Bình Định). Enkrat enkratne razstave vsako leto pripravijo na osrednjem trgu v mestu. Kipi slavnih borcev iz borilnih veščin iz preteklosti Bình Định stojijo ob promenadi ob plaži. In leta 2015 se je pojavilo na tisoče učencev, večkrat toliko, kot je bilo pričakovano, ko so šole Quy Nhơn začele izvajati obštudijske ure borilnih veščin. V nasprotju z drugimi tradicijami borilnih veščin dekleta so bila zgodovinsko pomembna v spopadih Bình Định (znana tradicionalna pesem je mladim neporočenim moškim po vsej državi svetovala, naj se "odpravijo v Bình Định, da najdejo čudovita dekleta, ki izvajajo močne borilne veščine"), stoletja kasneje pa je tudi ta tradicija obujena, ko so dekleta - brez uradnih ciljev - predstavljala skoraj polovico novih študentov. Stoletja po prisilni prepovedi in zagonu pod zemljo so se borilne veščine popolnoma zaokrožile in ponovno postale steber kulturnega življenja Bình Định.

Ali

Otroci

  • Zabaviščni park Beach Promenade (v parku na promenadi ob plaži 100 m (330 čevljev) južno od osrednje plaze na križišču ulic An Dương Vương in Ngô Mây). Droben zabaviščni park, stisnjen med drevesi ob plaži. Poltrajne vožnje vključujejo majhen vrtiljak in majhne avtomobile. Prodajalci v počepu ponujajo vietnamske prigrizke in poslikana darila za otroke. Zelo prikrito vzdušje s čudovitim razgledom na plažo in ocean, čeprav lahko majhno območje v visoki sezoni postane polno lokalnih otrok. Atrakcije so odprte za vse otroke, stare od 2 do 92 let, verjetno pa jih najbolj uživajo otroci od 4 do 9 let. Vozi 10.000–20.000 dong.
  • Otroški svet, 48 Nguyễn Công Trứ (kotiček Lương Định Của), 84 56 382-6343. Svetla in vesela dvonadstropna otroška čudežna dežela. Igre in zabava. Osredotočeno na mlajše otroke, stare od 2 do 7 let.

Filmi

  • Kinodvorane CGV, Kim Cúc Plaza (Quốc Lộ 1D, P. Ghềnh Ráng). CGV, edino veliko kinodvorano v mestu, je v kompleksu Big C na skrajnem jugozahodu mesta.

Šport in aktivnosti

  • Preprog nogomet (nogomet) in rokomet (vogal Lê Lai in Diên Hồng). Prevzem in organizirane igre. Ekipe so neformalne in vabijo novince, da se jim pridružijo.
  • Vesel biljard, 34 Tôn Đức Thắng (med Mai Xuân Thưởng in Nguyễn Đáng), 84 93 521 0186. Notranji in zunanji biljard klub z glasbo v nočnem klubu, ki piha po masivnih zvočnikih.
  • Športna igrišča Hà Huy Tập, 31 Hà Huy Tập (v Trần Nguyên Đán in Chu Văn An).
  • Dve lepo urejeni teniški igrišči. Pogosto neuporabljen. 100.000 dongov za eno uro, čeprav lahko pogosto vstopite in igrate brezplačno.
  • Dve igrišči za odbojko (eno čez cesto). Igre pobiranja večine popoldne in zvečer. Nizka vmesna raven spretnosti. Obiskovalci so zelo dobrodošli, da se nam pridružijo in igrajo.
  • Nguyễn Tất Thành Tenis (kotu Nguyễn Thái Học in Nguyễn Tất Thành). Dve lepo urejeni igrišči s trdo podlago. Dvorišča so v večini delavnikov zjutraj in popoldne neuporabljena. Uradna cena je 100.000 dongov za eno uro, vendar lahko običajno vstopite in igrate brezplačno. Zvečer od 17:00 do 20:00 skupina 25 moških pisarniških delavcev na nižji srednji ravni igra kratke dvoboje. Če imate svoj lopar, se jim lahko pridružite in igrate brezplačno. Sodišča so vidna z ulice Nguyễn Tất Thành, glavni vhod pa je s parkirišča za letališko pisarniško stavbo na vogalu Phạm Hùng in Mai Xuân Thưởng).]
  • Železniški tenis, 2 Phó Đức Chính, 84 56 629-2979. Dve lepo urejeni rdeče-zeleni teniški igrišči v severnem središču mesta. Na voljo večina zjutraj in popoldne, vključno z vikendi. Cena znaša 100.000 dongov na uro, vendar lahko običajno vstopite in igrate brezplačno.
  • Športni kompleks Tenis (severovzhodni vogal Tăng Bạt Hổ in Lê Hồng Phong). Dve lepo urejeni zeleni trdi teniški igrišči za vhod v športni kompleks. Na voljo večina zjutraj in popoldan, običajno pa jih zvečer rezervirajo bližnji pisarniški delavci. 100.000 dongov na uro.
  • Klub zmage in biljard Châu Thành (vogal Võ Xán in Nguyễn Đáng). Dva velika biljardna kluba, ki se nahajata nasproti ulice v zeleni soseski višjega razreda.
  • Joga center Watpo, 105F Hai Bà Trưng, 84 56 350-9333. Čist in sodoben joga center in wellness spa.

Nakup

Quy Nhơn je ne nakupovalni raj.

V središču je supermarket Coopmart, na nerazvitem območju na skrajnem jugozahodu pa hipermarket Big C in trgovina z metrojem Metro. To je to za velike trgovine.

Zunaj tega Quy Nhơn nima skoraj nobene verige trgovin, ki obstajajo v večjih vietnamskih mestih. Trgovin, kot sta Family Mart ali Shop & Go, ni. Ni veleblagovnic. In mesto je daleč stran od radarskega zaslona mednarodnih trgovcev na drobno, ki poslujejo v Vietnamu, kot so Gap, Nike in Mango.

Večina mestnih trgovin - in kavarn ter restavracij in penzionov - deluje iz družinskih domov. Oblačila, telefoni, čelade za motorje, pijače, športna oprema ... karkoli kupite, verjetno družina, ki vam jo prodaja, živi v nadstropjih nad trgovino.

Siesta čas

The popoldanska siesta je izginil v večini vietnamskih mest, vendar še vedno kraljuje v zaspanem Quy Nhơnu. Večina podjetij - vse banke, večina pisarn in trgovin na drobno, celo bizarno veliko število kavarn - se popoldne za nekaj ur zapre. Natančne ure se razlikujejo glede na posel in številni lokalni kraji v nobenem primeru nimajo določenega delovnega časa, vendar grobo vodilo je, da je najbolj odprto zjutraj okoli 08:00, zaprto za daljši odmor med kosilom od 11:00 ali od 11.30 do približno 14: 00–15: 00, popoldan pa znova odprti do 20.00.

Denar

Večina lokalnih podjetij v Quy Nhơnu je samo denar. Visokoproračunski hoteli sprejemajo kreditne kartice, vendar so skoraj vsi nizko- in srednjeproračunski hoteli samo gotovinski. Le malo trgovin, kavarn ali restavracij sprejema kreditne ali debetne kartice.

Po mestu so bankomati. Večina tujih bankovnic sprejema brez težav. Najvišja omejitev dviga se razlikuje glede na banko in znaša od 2.000.000 do 3.500.000 dongov na dvig.

Največja koncentracija bankomatov je severno od Coopmarta na Trần Thị Kỷ med ulicama Nguyễn Tất Thành in Lê Duẩn. Šest bank ponuja bankomate v neposredni bližini: Techcom, VietinBank, Agribank, Dong A Bank, ACB, Maritime Bank.

Ameriške dolarje lahko zamenjate v številnih bančnih pisarnah po mestu. Računi morajo biti dokaj novi in ​​v dobrem stanju; računi, ki so nekoliko obrabljeni ali starejši od 10 let, se pogosto zavrnejo. Potni list ni potreben.

Nekatere podružnice bank bodo morda lahko zamenjale tudi evre, britanske funtov in avstralske dolarje, vendar je malo možnosti, novi ameriški dolarji v dobrem stanju pa vam bodo povzročali manj težav.

Številne trgovine z zlatom in draguljarji v središču tudi hitro in pogosto menjajo dolarje po stopnjah, nekoliko boljših od bank. Prav tako so bolj pripravljeni sprejeti starejše ali bolj obrabljene račune, čeprav po nižjih cenah.

Trgovine

  • Trg Phú Thịnh (celoten blok Trần Quý Cáp med Trần Hưng Đạo in Phan Bội Châu). Večnadstropno nakupovalno središče na vzhodu mesta. Nizkoproračunske poltrajne trgovine, ki ponujajo domača in uvožena (predvsem s Kitajske) oblačila, torbe, gospodinjske predmete. Nekaj ​​elektronike.
  • Veliki C, Kim Cúc Plaza, Quốc Lộ 1D, P. Ghềnh Ráng (severno od podzemne železnice, nasproti križišča ulic Tây Sơn in Chương Dương). Podružnica Quy Nhơn na tajskem hipermarketu Big C leži ob avtocesti 1D blizu trgovine z metrojem in avtobusne postaje na redko poseljenem območju ob vznožju gora. Ponuja gospodinjske izdelke, oblačila in suho hrano. Ogromna stavba, ki je bila leta 2014 odprta za velike pompe zaradi svoje prve zelene tehnologije na tem območju, je zasnovana iz stekla in belega aluminija, da izgleda kot ogromna QR črtna koda.
  • 1 Coopmart, 7 Le Duan (glavni vhod na Nguyễn Tất Thành med ulicama Trần Thị Kỷ in Vũ Bão). Vsak dan od 8: 00–20: 00 brez odmora za kosilo. Coopmart, odprt leta 2003, je edini supermarket v mestu. Ponuja gospodinjske izdelke, oblačila ter svežo in pakirano hrano. V primerjavi s trgovinami Coopmart v večjih vietnamskih mestih ima podružnica Quy Nhơn opazno manj svežih živil in bistveno počasnejše odjavne linije. Trgovina služi kot vodilno mesto nakupovalnega središča v lokalnem slogu, ki pokriva celoten kvadratni blok in vključuje trgovino s pametnimi telefoni, lokalne prodajalce oblačil, KFC, trgovino s sendviči Bánh Mì Đất ter majhen zabaviščni park in zabaviščni center. Javna stranišča so na voljo za 2.000 dongov na uporabo na zadnji strani zabaviščnega centra za vožnjo z vodno ladjo.
  • [mrtva povezava]Kittyjeva hiša, 84 93 760-7888. Hello Kitty heaven: oblačila in obutev za otroke in odrasle, kape, torbe, pisala itd.
  • 318b Nguyễn Thái Học.
  • 55 Lý Thường Kiệt.
  • Metro Cash & Carry, Quốc lộ 1D, P. Ghềnh Ráng (južno od Velikega C, nasproti križišča Tây Sơn in Chương Dương). Podružnica Quy Nhơn samopostrežnega veletrgovca Metro, rojenega v Nemčiji, leži v bližini avtoceste 1D na redko poseljenem območju ob vznožju gore na skrajnem jugu mesta. Rumena modra tabla Metro je vidna že od kilometrov in služi kot referenca za voznike na tem območju.
  • Tan Phát, 2a Lý Thường Kiệt, 84 91 412-3133. Majhna trgovina, ki prodaja uvožene Hennessy in Belvedere.
  • Thể Duc Thể Thao, 124 Lê Hồng Phong. Ena izmed številnih trgovin z vadbo in fitnesom v enem bloku. Športna oprema, atletska oblačila, teniški loparji. Ta blok Lê Hồng Phong je najprimernejša in edina lokacija v nekaj sto kilometrih, kjer najdete posebne športne pripomočke.
  • Văn Hưng, 158 Ngô Mây, 84 56 352-3802. Elegantna trgovina z uvoženimi alkoholi, predvsem viskiji, kot sta Jack Daniels in Johnny Walker.
  • Vĩnh Thụy, 99 Lý Thường Kiệt (med ulicama Phó Đức Chính in Trần Phú), 84 56 381-1220. Ena izmed edinih lokalnih trgovin, ki ponuja veliko izbiro domačih in uvoženih alkoholov.

Trgi

  • Central Market, Ulica Tôn Đức Thắng (med ulicama Nguyễn Công Trứ in Trường Chinh [ime ulice Trường Chinh se spremeni v Tăng Bạt Hổ v krožišču Tôn Đức Thắng]). Velika tržnica v centru. Obsega veliko površino, ki je delno pokrita s ponjavami v prostoru med ulicama Tôn Đức Thắng in Lương Định Của, ter prodajalci - predvsem ženske -, ki se iz pokritega trga razlijejo na obe strani ulice Tôn Đức Thắng in prodajajo sveže sadje in zelenjavo iz odej. . Mango, kačji pastir, ananas, cherimoya, pomelo, kokos itd. Kravje meso v hladilniku, svinjina, ribe, raki. Sveže cvetje. Jutra so konice, nekateri prodajalci pa delajo ves dan.
  • Pokrita tržnica Chợ Đầm, Ulica Hoàng Hoa Thám (med ulicama Nguyễn Chánh in Hoàng Quốc Việt). Eden večjih in bolj raznolikih trgov na prostem v Quy Nhơnu. V severnem središču mesta. Sadje in zelenjava, sveže rezana (in v hladilniku) govedina in piščanec. Lupinar. Žive piščance in ribe. Izdelki za ognjemete. Kadilo. Mnogi okoliški prodajalci kuhajo na okoliških stranskih ulicah bánh xèo na prenosnih žarih na oglje. Odprto od zgodnjega jutra do večera.
  • Ribja tržnica, Phạm Ngọc Thạch (med Tô Vĩnh Diện in Nguyễn Huế [ime ulice se spremeni iz Phạm Ngọc Thạch v Phan Đăng Lưu na vogalu Nguyễn Huế]). Zunanja ribarnica. Prodajalci - večinoma ženske - sedijo na nizkih plastičnih stolih in prodajajo sveže ulovljene ribe, školjke, polže, rake, jastoge in ostrige iz odej, razprtih na obeh straneh ulice. Običajno odprto zgodaj zjutraj in pozno popoldne, prodajalci pa določijo svoje ure in prihajajo in odhajajo na podlagi zaloge rib.
  • Notranja / zunanja tržnica, osredotočeno okoli Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai in Vũ Bão. Največja pokrita živilska tržnica v središču mesta Quy Nhơn. Zraven templja Minh Tịnh in 10 minut hoje zahodno od Coopmarta. Trg zajema kavernozni notranji prostor, nameščen v ustrezni zgradbi na območju, ki ga omejujejo Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai, Võ Lai, Hàm Nghi in Vũ Bão, pa tudi zunanji del na Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai in bližnjih ulicah, kjer prodajalci prodajajo iz odej. položen na pločnik. Sadje, zelenjava, neobdelano meso in ribe, tofu, fižol. Na trgu se poleg običajnih živilskih izdelkov ponaša tudi velik del prodajalcev, ki prodajajo nekuhane rezance, vključno s provincialnimi specialitetami rezancev in dvojnih rezancev.

Jej

Zajtrk na ulici

Na stotine ribičev, ki vsako jutro vlečejo svoj dnevni ulov, in kilometri restavracij na plaži na prostem, Quy Nhơn je odlično mesto za sveže morske sadeže. Toda poleg dobro zaslužene slave kot celoletni peskatarijanski raj pustolovskemu popotniku ponuja tudi možnost, da poskusi specialitete, malo znane zunaj province Bình Định. In za majhno mesto se Quy Nhơn lahko pohvali s presenetljivo ogromen izbor vegetarijanskih restavracij.

V primerjavi z drugimi vietnamskimi mesti so restavracije neformalne in poceni. Stranke običajno sedijo neposredno na ulici ali v večnamenski dnevni sobi lastnika restavracije. V vseh, razen v najdražjih krajih in na nekaj središčnih mestih, so mize in stoli klimavi in ​​pogosto pokvarjeni predmeti iz poceni plastike in aluminija. Še lepši kraji so pogosto postavljeni znotraj na pol odprtega vrta, namesto tistega, kar bi si predstavljali kot bolj značilno restavracijo v zaprtih prostorih. Cena katere koli jedi v Quy Nhơnu je veliko cenejša kot v večjih mestih - cel krožnik školjk stane manj kot ena školjka v Saigonu - in v večini restavracij se zlahka napolnite za le nekaj dolarjev in za manj kot dolar v vegetarijanski kraji.

Še vedno zelo daleč od mednarodnega popotniškega kroga, restavracije skrbijo samo za okuse lokalnih prebivalcev in vietnamskih turistov. Dokler se boste držali stran od redkih krajev, ki se tržijo mednarodnim obiskovalcem, boste skoraj vedno edini tujec, kamor koli se odpravite, ko odkrivate parjene riževe pecivo, svinjske zvitke iz guave, rezance z ribje pogače, lonce z školjkami dušijo se v juhi limonine trave, pokrovače, še vedno v lupini, na žaru na žaru z arašidi in čilijevo omako, teletina, pražena na ražnju, kozji nabodala, polži, kuhani v zeliščih in kokosovem mleku, ter vegetarijanske jedi v domačih nastavitvah.

Je stvari podzemnih fantazij o hrani: obalno mesto s široko paleto lokalno ulovljenih in sveže pripravljenih živil, popolnoma neokrnjeno z mednarodnimi verigami in še vedno neodkrito zaradi množičnega turizma. Potopite se v lokalno restavracijsko sceno in doživeli boste stran Vietnama, ki je ne najdete nikjer drugje.

Lokalne specialitete

Bánh bèo chén
  • Bánh bèo chén ("Waterfern cake cup") je kuhana riževa torta v skodelici z ocvrto šalotko in posušeno kozico na vrhu, postreženo z omako za potapljanje. Zelo pogost v provinci Bình Định. Študenti in delavci jedo skodelico za skodelico - običajni delež je 10 skodelic na osebo -, ki sedijo za majhnimi mizicami ob ulici v mestu Quy Nhơn. Ponudniki so se popoldan in zgodaj zvečer postavili na številne vogalne ulice. 1.000 dongov na skodelico.
  • The sladka torta bánh ít lá gai ("Majhna torta z gai list") je narejen iz lepljivega riža, sladkorja, fižola mung, ingverja in (včasih) kokosa, obdan s pirejem gai list in nato vse ovito v list banane. The gai list - splošno angleško ime: pernati listi; botanično ime: Boehmeria nivea var. tenacissima- ni dobro znan ali se pogosto uporablja zunaj Vietnama. Drobljen in poparjen postane zeleno-črne barve in doda rahlo grenak in žvečilni kontrast aromatični sladkosti drugih sestavin. Bánh ít se prodaja v trgovinah in pri uličnih prodajalcih, npr. tik pred osrednjo tržnico na severovzhodnem vogalu ulic Tôn Đức Thắng in Trường Chinh. Priboljšek, zavit z bananinimi listi, ponujajo tudi v številnih restavracijah, kjer jih zložijo na mize; samo vzamete, kolikor želite, in se vam zaračuna na kos. 3.000 dongov na torto.
Bánh hỏi s svinjino in šalotko
  • Bánh hỏi so vrvice riževe vermičele, tkane v majhne zavojčke, postreženo s svinjsko in ocvrto šalotko ali z oljem in čebulo. Najdete jih pripravljene za uživanje v restavracijah ali za odvoz s strani uličnih prodajalcev. Najbolj znani prodajalci ulic prodajajo od jutra do večera na vogalu ulic Trần Phú in Nguyễn Công Trứ. Naročilo za odvoz bánh hỏi zavit v bananin list z oljem in drobnjakom stane 10.000 dongov, krožnik za takojšnjo porabo, ki ga postrežemo s kuhano svinjino in šalotko, pa 20.000 dongov.
  • Nem chợ huyện ("Huyện market roll") je svinjski zvitek z arašidovo omako, čilijem in zelišči. V zvitku, ki je znan kot posebnost polotoka Phing Mai, je v enem malem grižljaju slano, sladko, kislo in začinjeno. Lahko se pripravi bodisi s svežim svinjskim mesom, ki ga na oglju pečejo na žaru s sladkorjem, soljo in svinjsko kožo, ali s fermentiranim svinjskim mesom, ki ga tri dni zavijemo v list guave, da dobi kiselkast oster okus in nato prekrijemo z bananinim listom. serviranje. En zvitek lahko pojeste kot hiter prigrizek ali pa jih veliko zaužijete skupaj kot poln obrok. Zvitke lahko najdete v številnih lokalnih restavracijah in uličnih prodajalcih po mestu Quy Nhơn. Ali pa se odpravite do njihovega rojstnega kraja, tržnice Huyện v majhnem okrožju Phước Lộc v vasi Tuy Phước, 2 km od stolpov Bánh Ít Cham in 18 km severozahodno od Quy Nhơna, kjer 17 trgovin stoji tik ob avtocesti. 1A že več kot 100 let vsak dan odbija tisoče zvitkov. 3000 dongov.

Restavracije z morsko hrano na plaži

Majhne školjke, kuhane v juhi limonine trave (con nghêu hấp) postrežemo na travi nasproti plaže

Tik čez cesto od promenade na plaži je na ducate restavracij na prostem, specializiranih za sveže in lokalno ulovljene morske sadeže: polže, ostrige, školjke, rakovice, školjke, kozice, meduze in številne vrste rib.

Večino restavracij vodijo družine, ki živijo nad ali tik za restavracijami na ozki ulici Trần Đức. Hrana se kuha na odprtem ognju in žaru na oglje, ki se razlije povsod po ulici. Natakarji drvijo naprej in nazaj po cesti, medtem ko se izogibajo motociklom, luknjam, potepuškim mačkam in psom ter občasnim požarom, ki divjajo izven nadzora. Kupci jedo pri nizkih plastičnih mizah in stolih, ki so naključno postavljeni na travi in ​​med drevesi širokega srednjega pasu med ulicama Xuân Diệu in Trần Đức, uživajoč v čudovitem 180-stopinjskem pogledu na plažo, zaliv in gore.

Večina restavracij na plaži si je po ceni, kakovosti in izbiri zelo podobna, nekaj pa jih ponuja bolj nenavadne ali dražje izbire, kot so jastog (celo leto) in rakovica King (spomladanska sezona). Vsi morski sadeži so ujeti lokalno, zato cene nihajo glede na sezono in ribolovne pogoje, vendar je okvirno vodilo: krožnik ostrig, pokrovače, polžev, školjk, školjk ali školjk: 30.000–45.000 dongov; plošča ostrig: 40.000–60.000 dong; krožnik kozic na žaru: 60.000 dongov; lignji na žaru: 60.000–80.000 dong; ribe na žaru: 50.000–120.000 dong; vroč lonec (za 2–4 ​​osebe): 200.000 dong. Cene le blok od plaže so 30-50% cenejše, vendar brez fenomenalnega pogleda na ocean.

Restavracije najdemo na številnih mestih ob obali, največ pa je mest na obeh straneh Trần Đức na ulici Phan Đăng Lưu, enajst restavracij pa stoji zraven. Zahodno od ulice Lê Lợi je še en velik skupek sedmih nekoliko cenejših krajev.

Restavracije

  • Bảy Quán, 47 Mai Xuân Thưởng (vogal Trần Phú). Dvonadstropna restavracija, specializirana za piščančji zrezek in jajca (bò neé). Zelo priljubljen med študenti in lokalnimi delavci. Kombinirani obrok zrezka in jajc, solata, brezalkoholna pijača in kruh za 30.000 dongov.
  • Bê Thui Cầu Mống, 249 Nguyễn Thái Học (med Võ Mười in Vũ Bão). Majhna restavracija, ki ponuja znano specialiteto teletine, pražene na ražnju. Tele, skrbno izbrano v mladosti in s težo 30–35 kg (66–77 lb), da ne bi bilo preveliko in ne premajhno, pečejo celega na dolgi palici nad odprtim ognjem ob ulici. oglja. Nato počrnjeno kožo postrgamo, rožnato meso pa obrijemo na tanke rezine in postrežemo s soljenimi sardoni, riževim papirjem, čilijem, česnom, omako za namočenje ribjega olja, koščki zelene banane in zelišči. 150.000 dongov.
  • Bốn Quang Tuấn, 85 Lê Lợi (vogal Tăng Bạt Hổ), 84 93 408-3715. Zelo dobra restavracija z žarom in vročimi lonci v centru. Družinska operacija s samo šestimi mizami. Zelo priljubljen med študenti zaradi poceni govejega in svinjskega žara. Lonec školjk v začinjeni omaki 30.000 dongov. Vroč lonec 60.000.
  • Hai Thái, 351 Trần Hưng Đạo (med ulicama Nguyễn Văn Bé in Đào Duy Từ), 84 56 625-2489. Kavernozna notranja in zunanja restavracija v središču mesta, specializirana za kozje meso. Vsi ponujeni deli koze: želodec, črevesje itd. Vonj številnih koz, ki jih istočasno pečejo na žaru, je lahko izjemen, če ga niste vajeni. Zasebne jedilnice so na voljo ob glavni restavraciji. Kozje meso na palici po 27.000 dongov. Kozji obroki 90.000–200.000 dongov.
  • Kavarna Hương Việt, 35 Nguyễn Lương Bằng (vogal Tôn Đức Thắng), 84 91 473-7673. Velika vrhunska kavarna in restavracija v središču, vzhodno od Nguyễn Tất Thành in severno od osrednje tržnice. Lepo in atmosfersko okolje, kjer kupci sedijo znotraj pagodnih struktur, ki so povezane z lesenimi mostovi in ​​obkrožene z drevesi topiary in bonsai, vse skupaj ob zvokih klasične glasbe iz Evrope in Vietnama. Priljubljeno med višjimi sloji lokalnih prebivalcev in vietnamskih turistov. Standardna vietnamska hrana in pijača v ponudbi. Kava 20.000 dong. Čaj (na voljo več sort) 20.000–25.000. Cene hrane so približno 50% višje kot enake cene na drugih prizoriščih Quy Nhơn.
  • Mià Hàng 07, 7 Trần Phú (na jugozahodnem vogalu križišča Hà Huy Tập), 84 56 3821-607. Velika restavracija z morskimi sadeži, postavljena pod napol pokrito pločevinsko streho na parkirišču na pusti odsek ceste na jugozahodu mesta. Pet minut hoje od plaže. Kljub napol slabemu videzu (tako restavracije kot kupcev) privablja zvesto lokalno množico starejših intelektualcev, ki so podnevi in ​​ponoči v pol pijanih in popolnoma vajenih argumentih o zadnjem tisočletju vietnamske zgodovine. Znanje vietnamskega jezika je očitno koristno za spremljanje preobratov zapletenih razprav, toda zahvaljujoč sodelovanju z ameriškimi vojaki v šestdesetih letih prejšnjega stoletja lahko več starejših moških z veseljem zdrži v angleščini po nekaj hobotnicah in pivu na žaru. Restavracija ponuja enake možnosti školjk in morskih sadežev kot restavracije na promenadi ob plaži po cenah približno 20–40% nižje.
Vaša večerja se pripravlja.
  • Ốc Biển, 21 Trần Cao Vân (med Nguyễn Trãi in Nguyễn Huế), 84 164 624-7898. Majhna restavracija za školjke, dva bloka severno od plaže na jugovzhodu mesta, blizu ljudske občinske stavbe. Osem vrst lupin na dan: ostrige na žaru, pokrovače na žaru z arašidi in šalotko, polži, školjke, školjke. Priljubljeno med lokalnimi prebivalci po cenah, ki so polovico nižje kot na bližnji promenadi ob plaži. 15.000–20.000 dongov na krožnik lupin.
  • Phượng Tèo Bún Chả Cá, 211 Nguyễn Huệ. Velika in zelo priljubljena nizkoproračunska restavracija za juho z rezanci iz ribje torte. 25.000 dongov na skledo.
  • Quán An Cô Bốn Bún Thịt Nướng, 232 Trần Hưng Đạo (20 m (70 ft) vzhodno od Ngô Thời Nhiệm). Standardna vietnamska lokalna menza. Svinjska, piščančja, goveja obara z rižem ali rezanci. Niti posebno dobro niti posebno slabo: po vsem mestu je na ducate enakih krajev. Vendar pa je ta restavracija med zahodnimi turisti za Quy Nhơn postala kultni hit, potem ko je en tuji kupec odkril, da lastnik zaradi petletnega bivanja v San Franciscu in Oaklandu govori dokaj dobro angleško. Nekaj ​​let po prvem pregledu tujca je ta majhna menza neverjetno nabrala daleč največ mnenj v angleškem jeziku v kateri koli restavraciji v mestu, kar je zelo zmedlo lastnika in nekaj lokalnih prebivalcev, ki se tega zavedajo. 20.000 dongov za krožnik riža ali rezancev z različnimi mesnimi jedmi.
  • Quán Dê19, 19 Nguyễn Công Trứ (na vogalu Bà Triêu), 84 56 90 555-1178. Kozje meso v majhni kotni restavraciji v središču mesta. Vsi deli koze pripravljeni. Cenejši od večjih kozjih restavracij. Kozji obroki 30.000–100.000 dongov.
  • Quán Dê35, 121-123 Hoa Lư (50 m (160 ft) vzhodno od ulice Tháp Đôi na južni strani rečnega pristana), 84 98 881-4479. Kozje meso v strešni restavraciji na prostem na severni obali. Pogled na reko, most in tempelj čez vodo. Vsi deli koze pripravljeni. Kozji obroki 50.000–150.000 dongov.
  • Restavracija Trần Quang Diệu Shell (severovzhodni vogal Mai Xuân Thưởng in Trần Quang Diệu). Zelo dobre jedi iz školjk. Ponuja tri posebne specialitete sveže ulovljenih školjk: školjke, polži, ostrige na žaru, školjke, pokrovače itd. Kuhane z začimbami, česnom, limonsko travo in kokosovim mlekom, ki jih postrežemo na majhnih krožnikih za predjed. Kupci sedijo v majhnem prostoru v zaprtih prostorih ali v ponjavi, pokriti s prostorom na vogalu ulice. Zelo priljubljen v času kosila med študenti in lokalnimi pisarniškimi delavci kot hiter in dober prigrizek. Vsaka plošča lupin stane 10.000 dongov.

Bánh xèo

Bánh xèo je zelo priljubljena hrana v kraju Quy Nhơn, ki se prodaja na številnih prizoriščih, vključno s posebnimi restavracijami, poltrajnimi stojnicami in začasnimi stojnicami pred domovi.

Domačini so zelo ponosni na svoje bánh xèo, ki iskreno razglaša, da svojo različico predstavlja več ključnih kulinaričnih razlik daleč najboljši v Vietnamu. V nasprotju z bolj znanim slogom južnega Vietnama, bánh xèo v Quy Nhơnu se kuha brez tamarinda in je majhen in tanek. Krep iz riževe moke in vode ocvremo s fižolovimi kalčki na ponev, ki piha. Kupec izbere glavno sestavino; možnosti se razlikujejo od prodajalca do prodajalca, lahko pa vključujejo kozice, svinjino, govedino, piščanca, lignje in prepeličja jajca (trứng cút). Kuhano palačinko prepognemo in postrežemo kupcu, ki jo skupaj s svežimi kumaricami, meto, cilantrom in zeleno solato zavije v poltrden kos riževega papirja, ki je bil dovolj potopljen v vodo, da je lahko nekoliko prožen, vendar premalo izgubi hrustljavost. Nato zvitek namočimo v znamenito lokalno omako, sladko rjavo zmes iz praženih arašidov, fermentiranega sojinega fižola in palmovega sladkorja.

Nekatere soseske mesta so se razvile v bánh xèo posebna področja, kjer se restavracije ali prodajalci na ulici zbirajo v prijateljski konkurenci med seboj. Vzdušje, prizorišče in cena se med kraji zelo razlikujejo, vendar - čeprav ima vsak kraj svoje oboževalce, ki to prisegajo njihovi kraj je absolutno najboljši - hrana in priprava sta si povsod v mestu precej podobna. Najbolj znano območje je na ulici Diên Hồng, južno od Lê Duẩna v središču mesta, kjer štiri sosednje restavracije vsako uro popoldne in zvečer pripravijo na stotine palačink na uro. Svet na Đống Đi in okoliških stranskih ulicah na severni obali, zlasti v bližini pokrite tržnice Chợ Đầm, je osrčje mesta bánh xèo tradicija; dve polni restavraciji in številni prodajalci na ulici ponujajo svoje različice jedi v okoljih, ki so manj obremenjene in manj turistične kot Diên Hồng. In na majhni tržnici z nočno hrano tik ob promenadi ob plaži, na Ngô Văn Sở in okoliških uličicah med Nguyễn Huế in Nguyễn Lạc, pripravijo več malih in srednje velikih prodajalcev bánh xèo vsak večer.

  • Gia Vỹ. Najbolj znan bánh xèo restavracija v Quy Nhơnu ima dve poslovalnici. Največji - in zagotovo najbolj turistični - od bánh xèo prizorišče v mestu je Gia Vỹ 2, ki leži na severnem koncu grozda štirih restavracij, ki tekmujejo drug ob drugem na ulici Diên Hồng. Factory-like in its efficiency and size, circus-like in the bustle of the cooks, waiters, and boys running around trying to corral passing motorcyclists inside, the restaurant offers indoor and outdoor (across the street) seating. The original Gia Vỹ, on Đống Đa in the northern end of the city, is much smaller, more local and massively more tranquil than the second branch. Prices are the same at both branches: 25,000 dong per plate of two pancakes.
  • Bánh Xèo Tôm Nhảy Gia Vỹ, 118 Đống Đa (on north side of Đống Đa street west of intersection with Hoàng Hoa Thám).
  • Bánh Xèo Tôm Nhảy Gia Vy 2. 14 Diên Hồng (one block east of Nguyễn Tất Thành at the corner of Lê Duẩn; three-minute walk from the airport shuttle-bus drop-off spot).
Roving bánh xèo vendor cooking on hot coals on the street
  • Cô Hai bánh xèo, 48 Lý Thái Tổ, 84 98 318-2127. Family-style restaurant offering delicious bánh xèo. Good quality at budget price. A 10-minute walk from the beach on a pleasant, tree-lined street in the southwest of city. 4,000 dong per pancake.
  • Quán An, Ngô Văn Sở (northwest corner of Trần Đột). The largest of several small street-side bánh xèo restaurants in the little night-food area just off the beach promenade on Ngô Văn Sở and surrounding alleys between Nguyễn Huế and Nguyễn Lạc. The bánh xèo is the same at all the restaurants in the small area. Price is highly variable at Quán An; it's one of the very few restaurants in Quy Nhơn which sometimes charge foreigners different prices than locals pay. A plate of four pancakes costs locals 15,000–20,000 dong; tourists are typically charged 25,000–30,000 dong.
  • Breakfast bánh xèo, Trần Quang Diệu (between Nguyễn Công Trứ and Tăng Bạt Hổ). Several vendors offer bánh xèo for breakfast in front of their homes on the small, tree-lined street of Trần Quang Diệu between Nguyễn Công Trứ and Tăng Bạt Hổ. They cook daily on most mornings from 07:00 to 10:00, or until they run out of ingredients. 3,000 dong per pancake.
  • Bánh xèo market vendors, Covered market Chợ Đầm (at Hoàng Hoa Thám and Hoàng Quốc Việt streets). Številne bánh xèo vendors rove the streets around the local market Chợ Đầm in the northern end of the city near the riverside. Very local. 1,000–2,000 dong per pancake.

Bánh mì

As everywhere in Vietnam, there are hundreds of bánh mì (baguette sandwiches) stands scattered throughout the city. Prices are 6,000–10,000 dong for most standard sandwiches, and 12,000–15,000 dong for fancier ingredients.

  • Bánh Mì Đất. Local chain of three sandwich shops. Fixed-location stores but no seating. Offers more variety of options than the typical specialized street-side sandwich stall, as well as choice of warming the baguette. One sandwich 10,000–15,000 dong.
  • 8 Ngô Mây (near beach at the corner of Diên Hồng).
  • Coopmart shopping complex (Nguyễn Tất Thành).
  • 307 Lê Hồng Phong (southwest side of the Quang Trung roundabout at intersection with Lý Thường Kiệt street).

Hot pot

Vroči lonec (lẩu) is by far the most popular food in Quy Nhơn for groups of family or friends eating out. Obstaja na ducate hot-pot specialty restaurants throughout the city. Additionally, even restaurants that don't specialize in it quite often still offer some form of hot pot.

Quy Nhơn hot pot is similar to other regions throughout Vietnam. Beef or pork is typically the main protein, although some venues—including almost all along the beach promenade and nearby side streets—also offer seafood. The cooking style varies between places: most offer a pot of stock simmering on a bucket of coals, while some places give diners a semi-circular metal tray for grilling the food in butter or oil.

  • Oishi Quán, 105D Hai Bà Trưng (between Lê Hồng Phong and Trần Cao Vân), 84 120 654-6774. Hot pot restaurant popular at night with university students. Seating both indoors and at stylish wooden tables on the street. Hot pot 110,000–150,000 dong.
  • Quyết Thắng, 282 Diên Hồng (near corner of Lê Lai). One of many hot-pot restaurants in a small area near the corner of Diên Hồng and Lê Lai. Offers the option of either grilling your food or the traditional style of boiling it in a pot of simmering stock. Hot pot 200,000 dong.

Non-Vietnamese

  • Buratino, 380D Nguyễn Thái Học (15 m (50 ft) south of Ngô Mây), 84 090 555-1383. Daily until 23:00. One of the only restaurants in Quy Nhơn—if not only restaurant—specializing in Western-style food such as pizza and pasta. The restaurant is often recommended by the bigger hotels to Western tourists looking for comfort food similar to home. But it's a small restaurant and Quy Nhơn is not an international city, so the food is suited to local tastes and ends up being more Vietnamese-style than Westerners expect. Dishes from 50,000–100,000 dong, combo meals 200,000–270,000 dong.
  • Jollibee, Nguyễn Thiêp (corner of Nguyễn Huệ), 84 56 381-4066. The Philippine fast-food chain.
  • KFC, 7 Nguyễn Tất Thành (entrance on Nguyễn Tất Thành between Trần Thị Kỷ and Vũ Bão streets). The only Western fast-food chain restaurant in the city, in the southeast corner of the Coopmart shopping centre.
  • NamSushi, 334A Diên Hồng (30 m (100 ft) north from the roundabout with An Dương Vương and Ngô Mây), 84 56 352-2979. Daily 10:00–14:00, 17:00–22:00. Large and elaborate sushi restaurant. Two storeys: the lower floor seating is at normal tables, while the upper floor has views towards the sea and seating on pillows and a no-shoes-allowed shiny hardwood floor. The quality of the food might not be at the standards of sushi in Tokyo (or Beijing, Moscow or Los Angeles), but it's the best and most modern sushi in the not-so-international-yet Quy Nhơn. It's a two-minute walk from the central beach and a five-minute walk southwest from Coopmart. Tuna maki 40,000 dong, sushi 30,000–80,000 for two pieces, temaki salmon hand roll 45,000. Basic combo sushi sets 125,000 dong for 14 pieces, 345,000 for more elaborate 25 pieces. Sake 150 mL 85,000 dong, 250 mL 145,000, 1.8 L 250,000.
  • Pizza H-P, 68 Trần Cao Vân (between Tăng Bạt Hổ and Hai Bà Trưng streets). Small pizza restaurant in the city centre with the English-language motto "Be Different". Offers hot pot and Western pizzas done Vietnamese style. Pizza: small 50,000 dong, large 100,000.
  • Pop Gelato, 118B Nguyễn Thái Học, 84 09 065-8090. Modern gelatto shop in west of city. Popular with young people.

Vegetarijansko

Obstajajo dozens of vegetarian restaurants in Quy Nhơn.

The majority of the restaurants are very small family-homes within a block or two of a Buddhist temple; look for signs saying "Chay" (vegetarian) in front of houses and small alleyways. The meals offered can be quirky—in a good way—and are often quite pleasant discoveries after the monotony of the standard vegetarian fare in Vietnam. And the setting—eating with every generation of the owner's family smack-dab in the middle of their house at their living room table—makes the experience feel very much like a homestay. However, the opening hours of these little family operations are completely random; on full moon days, they're usually open from morning to early evening, but at other times, it's hit or miss.

The larger vegetarian restaurants offer the advantage of more predictable and regular hours. But they generally have (slightly) higher prices and the food selection is the more typical vegetarian fare in which the meat and fish in the standard Vietnamese noodle and rice dishes are simply swapped out for meat-substitutes like seitan and tofu. Buddhist monks are frequent diners at the vegetarian restaurants; a few of the more gregarious ones speak some English and often chat up any foreigners to learn about life abroad.

  • An Bình, 141 Trần Cao Vân (directly north of main entrance to the temple, between Tăng Bạt Hổ and Phan Bội Châu). Mid-sized vegetarian just north of the temple. Slightly more upscale setting than most vegetarian restaurants in the city, with tablecloths and flowers on each table. Open hours officially 07:00–21:00, although often closes for long breaks. One of several vegetarian restaurants near the Long Khánh Buddhist temple. Vegetarijansko bánh xèo 10,000 dong. Plate of daily vegetable dishes with rice 18,000 dong.
  • Hiển Nam, 3a Trần Thị Kỷ, 84 56 221-1148. Medium-large vegetarian attached to the Hiển Nam temple just west of Nguyễn Tất Thành street. A four-minute walk from Coopmart. Picturesque views of the temple through the open back gate of the restaurant. Daily lunch of rice with several vegetable dishes plus soup: 15,000.
  • Kim Ngọc Bánh Mì, 108 Ngô Mây (at corner of Biên Cương). A permanent street stall one block south of Minh Tịnh temple selling vegetarian baguette sandwiches (bánh mì). One sandwich 8,000 dong.
  • Minh Hoa, 115 Nguyễn Du (at corner of Ngô Quyền). Standard mid-size vegetarian restaurant. Plate of vegetable dishes with rice plus soup 15,000 dong.
  • Nhà hàng, 114 Tăng Bạt Hổ (between Lê Hồng Phong and Trần Cao Vân), 84 56 382-1100. Very large vegetarian restaurant on the south side of Long Khánh Buddhist temple. Dependably open long hours from morning until night, including holidays. Slightly more expensive than the many smaller, family-run vegetarian restaurants in the area. Noodle and rice dishes 25,000–50,000 dong.
  • Pháp Duyên, 55 Nguyễn Lữ (between Võ Lai and Ngô Mây), 84 98 381-2344. Mid-sized vegetarian one block southeast of the Minh Tịnh temple. A five-minute walk from either the central plaza on the beach or from the Coopmart. Mixed vegetables, rice, soup: 17,000 dong.
  • Sáu Thu, 79 Hai Bà Trưng (between Ngô Quyền and Lê Lợi). Mid-size vegetarian restaurant next to the Quy Nhơn Evangelical Church in the eastern end of the central city. Both the setting and the food are a slight step above similar vegetarian venues. One plate of assorted vegetable dishes plus rice 30,000 dong.
  • Thanh Minh, 151 Phan Bội Châu (between Mai Xuân Thưởng and Trần Cao Vân). Small family-run vegetarian restaurant on the north side of Long Khánh Buddhist temple. Generally offers several vegetable-based dishes, as opposed to the meat-substitute dishes found at typical Vietnamese vegetarian restaurants. Mixed vegetable dishes, rice and soup: 20,000 dong.
  • Thanh Tấm, 41 Ngô Mây, 84 56 625-0309. Mid-sized vegetarian restaurant one block south of the Minh Tịnh temple. Daily lunch of mixed vegetables including rice and soup for 15,000 dong.
  • Thanh Vân, 161 Trần Cao Vân (between Tăng Bạt Hổ and Phan Bội Châu). Very tiny vegetarian restaurant in a family-home in a small alley off the main street. One of several vegetarian restaurants near the Long Khánh Buddhist temple.
  • Tịnh Tâm, 149 Trần Cao Vân (between Tăng Bạt Hổ and Phan Bội Châu), 84 56 38-2773. Small family-run vegetarian just north of the Long Khánh temple. One of several vegetarian restaurants near the temple. Extremely kind family owners often invites foreigners to explore their home and culture.
  • An Lạc, 6 Nguyễn Lữ (just off Ngô Mây). Small family-run restaurant serving cơm (rice with assorted toppings): 20,000 dong. Very kind and friendly owners who will appreciate if you can say even a few words of Vietnamese.

Pekarne

  • Bánh Kem Ngọc Nga, 319-323B-325 Lê Hồng Phong, 84 56 382-3750. The largest, most elaborate—and commensurately most expensive—bakery in Quy Nhơn. Intricately designed and decorated cakes, for example shaped as animals (frogs, dogs, bunnies, dragons) and human figures (Buddha, princesses). Cake flavors include green tea (matcha), tiramisu, and standard cream cakes. Also offers vegan (pure-veg) baked products. The bakery spans three adjacent stores, with one specializing in cakes, the second in cookies, sweet breads and chocolates, and the third in general baked products. Unusually for Quy Nhơn, the bakery has a website, and the site is even available in English. Mid-size cakes 60,000–200,000 dong, larger and more elaborate cakes 200,000–400,000. Cookies and chocolates 5,000–15,000.
  • Đúc Tỏ Baguette Bakers, 83 Đống Đa (100 m (260 ft) to the northeast from the busy intersection with Trần Hưng Đạo), 84 56 381-3802. Long-standing family operation that bakes the baguettes used for bánh mì sandwiches. Reputed among locals to be the highest quality baguettes in the city. 1,300 dong for one hot baguette fresh out of the oven, 15,000 for 12.
  • Hoàng Yến Bakery, 211 Tăng Bạt Hổ (close to corner of Trần Cao Vân), 84 93 343-4908. Small bakery offering big cakes. Cakes 100,000–250,000 dong. Chocolate lollipops 10,000.
  • Phương Ngá Bakery, 46 Trường Chinh (corner of Lê Duẩn), 84 90 385-8812. Small bakery offering cakes and chocolate pieces. Offers all the standard cakes and decorations, with a specialty in tiramisu cakes and fruit-jelly cakes (including passion-fruit cake). Unusually for Quy Nhơn, sells pieces of cakes in single servings, rather than entire cakes. Whole cakes 50,000–150,000 dong. Single-serving piece of cake 10,000–20,000. Chocolate letters (for spelling out words with chocolate) 2,000 each.
  • Tamba Bakery, 335A-B Nguyễn Thái Học (at Vũ Bão Võ Lai street), 84 56 362-9549. Spacious and clean bakery in the southwest of city with the English motto "Good Food—Good Life." Cakes, cupcakes, cream buns, pork floss buns. Prices around 20–40% less than most Quy Nhơn bakeries. Cupcakes 10,000 dong, cakes 30,000–150,000.
  • Tinh Hoa Bakery, 105 Trần Cao Vân (corner of Hai Bà Trưng), 84 56 382-3717. Corner bakery very popular among locals for birthdays, holidays, and family meals. Cakes 50,000–200,000 dong. Cupcakes 15,000. Chocolate hearts 5,000. Squares of coconut and sticky rice in powdered sugar 3,000.

Pijte

Cafes are the centre of social life in Quy Nhơn. They come in all sizes: huge and impressive, small and quaint, tiny and jammed between parked motorbikes in a family's living room. They're in every style: knee-high tables on street corners, outdoor gardens with wooden verandas, hipster joints infused with attitude, cubbyholes serving milk tea to teenagers on bamboo floors, tables set amidst bonsai forests. And with over 1,000 cafes for a city of only 300,000 people, you find them everywhere: on the beach, in the city centre, on the sides of the mountains, on median strips in the middle of streets.

Cafe hours can be tricky to predict. Most cafes are open in the prime hours in the late afternoon and evening, and many are also open in the early morning. But the exact hours vary a lot from place to place. Even at one cafe, the hours will vary from day to day based on customer flows, the weather, and the owner's schedule. Lunchtime is also hit-or-miss: some cafes always take a siesta break, some always work through lunchtime, and many just open or close based on the whims of the day. As a general reference, a typical schedule might be to open at 07:00 or 08:00 in the morning, close for a break from 11:00 to 15:00, then serve until 21:00 or so.

As for nightlife.... the answer is "no". Quy Nhơn has no real nightlife to speak of. There's one slightly dodgy neon-and-smoke-machine nightclub. Most restaurants open at night have beer—or will find some for you—and many cafes serve cocktails, but there's nothing like a bar scene where people mingle over drinks. The majority of places close by 22:00, and by midnight the city is almost deserted. So kick back in an open-air cafe or restaurant, lap up the sea views and ocean breezes, and enjoy the city's sleepy small-town vibe.

Kavarne

  • Bookafe, 86 Lê Duẩn (corner of Vũ Bão), 84 1900 1757. Very large higher-end cafe with both outdoor and indoor seating. Three minutes by foot southwest from the Coopmart. Extensive lighting in the evening makes it a popular spot for couples at night. Gelatto ice cream available. Somewhat confusingly, the cafe's name is spelled "Bookafe" on internet sites and Facebook, but the logo is designed as "Bookkafe", where the middle "k" is stylized to be both the "k" of "book" and the "K" of "Kafe". Lassi 50,000 dong, coffee 35,000, yoghurt smoothies 50,000.
  • Búp Cafe, 37 Ngô Mây (at south side of intersection with Biên Cương), 84 56 374-7968. Small and cute cafe in the city centre a 10-minute walk northwest from the beach or seven minutes west from Coopmart. Beloved by teenage girls for its cute drinks, caramel popcorn, and Western pop music. The friendy owner Búp, one of the very few cafe owners in the city completely fluent in English, converted his parents' small clothing store into the eponymous cafe in the summer of 2015 after graduating from graphic design studies in Saigon. The cafe shows off some of his design skills. Milk tea 17,000 dong plus 3,000 for toppings.
  • Đất Việt Cafe, 11 Trần Lương (50 m (160 ft) from intersection with Lý Thái Tổ), 84 589-0056. Charming cafe built underneath—and hidden amongst—towering trees on a quiet lane a 7-minute walk west from the beach in the southwest of the city. Coffee 15,000 dong.
  • Du Mục Cafe, 18 Bùi Thị Xuân (near corner of Nguyễn Công Trứ). Pleasant indoor cafe decorated with many tropical plants on the walls and bamboo-mat hanging from the ceilings. It's in the city centre on an idyllic, narrow street packed with bonsai trees, flags and children playing.
  • G.Life Cafe, 1 Phó Đức Chính (corner of Nguyễn Thái Học). Hipster-esque cafe in the northern end of the city. White-brick wall interior. Offers ice coffee blended with tiramisu, cookies or banana. Coffee 10,000 dong, latte 21,000, cappuccino 21,000. Blended ice coffee 25,000. Smoothies 25,000. Cookies and cream 25,000.
  • Helen Cafe, 490 Trần Hưng Đạo (between Đoàn Thị Điểm and Hoàng Hoa Thám), 84 90 563-3652. Cute little cafe near Chùa Trúc Lâm temple. Popular among local teenage girls for its milk tea, bubble tea, iced coffee, and cookies drinks. Seating on pillows on the floor. Walls decorated with bright pink drawings, hipster black-and-white photos, and enormous paintings of Japan and Europe. Milk tea 20,000 dong plus 3,000 for each topping.
  • Hello Kitty Cafe, 69 Tháp Đôi, 84 56 379-1336. All the Hello Kitty drinks, cakes and sweets you could want in a cafe with all the Hello Kitty decorations you could squeeze into a small space. Ignore the trademark violations (shhhh...) and enjoy.
  • Inn Cafe, 22 Nguyễn Bỉnh Khiêm (between Tôn Đức Thắng and Nguyễn Trần). Peaceful indoor cafe with picturesque European-style window boxes and white window frames. A two-minute walk south of the central market on Tôn Đức Thắng street. Coffee 12,000 dong.
  • Jolly, 121 Lê Lợi (corner of Phan Bội Châu), 84 56 382-1907. Cafe with a young and modern style in the east of the city. With fishbowl windows facing on the street corner giving lots of natural light, white brick walls, gelato bar, and an extensive menu of cookie drinks, frappuccinos, smoothies, and tea with jam, Jolly has attracted a steady crowd of young people since its 2015 opening. Adorning the walls are chalk-scribbled translations of Vietnamese humor such as "Woman are less dangerous when they have gelato". Prepovedano kajenje. Coffee and smoothie drink mixes 20,000–30,000 dong.
  • Like Cafe, 52 Trường Chinh (on south side of three-way intersection with Tôn Đức Thắng and Tăng Bạt Hổ). City centre cafe near the central food market. The modern decor and creative drinks makes it popular with Quy Nhơn's (very small) young and fashionable crowd. Large outdoor seating area, plus indoor tables. One of the nicer public bathroom in Quy Nhơn (damning with faint praise, but modern clean toilets aren't one of Quy Nhơn's specialties). Coffee 20,000-25,000 dong, cacao with yogurt cubes 40,000, smoothies 35,000-45,000.
  • Marina Cafe, 5 Trần Quý Cáp (corner of Phan Bội Châu). Mid-market, modern-style cafe in the southwest corner of the An Phú Thịnh Plaza building. Coffee 25,000 dong. Smoothies 40,000.
  • Osaka Cafe, 96a Mai Xuân Thưởng (corner of Lương Định Của). Multi-storey cafe in the centre. A two-minute walk east from the airport shuttle bus drop-off. Typical large mid-budget Vietnamese style cafe/restaurant. Nothing to do with Japan other than the name and a painting of Mt. Fuji. Large indoor water-pond display with dozens of small porcelain Buddhas playing under plastic cherry blossoms. Karaoke on upper floors. Big open windows on street. Old but clean toilets. Coffee 15,000 dong, cacao 16,000, yogurt 18,000.
  • p.u.q. Kavarna, 51 Hoàng Diệu (corner of Lê Xuân Tú). Hip little cafe in the centre. The decor is a mix between urban industrial and Asian kitsch. Stylish smoothies served in an edible glass made of sweet jelly. Espresso 13,000 dong, Cappucino 18,000, Smoothies 20,000.
  • Queen Cafe, 110 Ngô Mây (at corner of Biên Cương). Pleasant two-storey treehouse-cafe a 10-minute walk northwest from the beach. Coffee 15,000 dong.
  • Reform Cafe, 83 Trần Cao Vân (10 m (30 ft) south of Hai Bà Trưng). Industrial-style hipster-esque coffee shop. Complete with intricate latte art and baristas wielding tough attitudes, Reform cafe could (almost) be at home in London, Paris or Brooklyn. Small indoor and outdoor space. Smokey. Offers more varieties of coffee drinks than most cafes in Quy Nhơn. Espresso 15,000 dong, Irish cafe 20,000, latte 25,000, mocha 28,000, cappuccino 25,000.
  • Sam Cafe (corner of Tôn Đức Thắng and Nguyễn Thái Học), 84 93 482 3 482. Very large outdoor cafe set rather unusually amidst dozens of bonsai trees which are for sale. At the entrance waits a human-sized statue of a fisher goddess to greet you. Coffee 15,000 dong.
  • Tien Loi Coffee, 323 Trần Hưng Đạo (northwest corner of Trần Cao Vân). Tiny and sweet cafe a block north of the Long Khánh temple in the northeast of the city centre. Small outdoor seating. Milk tea and coffee served in artsy jars tied off with burlap rope designs. Specialty drink of red and green Thai sweet tea. The upstairs has a no-shoes pillow-seating area surrounded by massive posters illustrating Vietnamese fantasy stories.
  • Violet Cafe, 1 Tôn Đức Thắng (in front of small tree/grass roundabout at intersection with Hà Huy Tập and Chu Văn An). Very pleasant, modern cafe. Wood tables and chairs. Has a glass-enclosed non-smoking room with pillow-seating on a sparkling-clean hardwood floor. Drinks only, no food. Coffee 15,000 dong, cacao 18,000, yogurt smoothie 18,000-23,000.

Bars and clubs

  • Style Pub & Bar, 10 Đô Đốc Bảo (across the street from Coopmart), 84 93 256-8089. The biggest nightclub in Quy Nhơn. The only one, as well. Lots of blue and green neon lights. Lots of smoke, both from cigarettes and from smoke machines. Mainly Vietnamese music, loud and with the bass cranked up, but some Western pop mixed in.

Spi

Quy Nhơn city

Despite the hopes of local officials to turn Quy Nhơn into a mega beach resort similar to Nha Trang, with 10-storey chain hotels packing international travellers into every nook of the beach promenade and smaller hotels stretching the tourist zone several blocks back from the coast, accommodation is still very low-key. As of 2016, only a few hotels of more than five floors are scattered over the kilometres of prime beach-front streets, and many blocks in front of the ocean are either completely devoid of buildings or have only a patchwork of small residential houses and gardens.

Ta vodnik za standard uporablja naslednje cenovne razpone dvojno soba:
ProračunUnder 300,000 dong
Srednji razred300,000–600,000 dong
SplurgeOver 600,000 dong

Almost all visitors to Quy Nhơn are local Vietnamese tourists, and the accommodation options cater to them in terms of hotel styles, food, and service. And with very few international travellers, English language knowledge is almost zero: plan on lots of hand movements for communicating in all but the handful of higher-end places. On the plus side, though, you'll find prices that are significantly cheaper than in other beach cities in the country, no scams or higher rates for foreigners, and a personal friendliness that overcomes all language difficulties (well, many of them, at least).

Online reservations are available through the standard international booking websites for all the more expensive hotels and a few enterprising budget inns, so if you like, you can guarantee yourself a room before you arrive. But you won't find the majority of low- and mid-budget places on the internet: either have a Vietnamese-speaker call by phone to reserve for you, or just show up and ask when you arrive. Hotel growth hasn't been massive, but it definitely has outpaced tourist numbers in the last decade, and even in the Tết holiday period or peak summer months, you'll never have a problem finding a room for the night if you just ask around a bit.

Proračun

  • Anh Khoa Hotel, 34 Trường Chinh, 84 56 625-0255. Clean, low-budget hotel in centre of city. The building's four-storey outside features a prominent green and yellow art-deco motif which contrasts with the wood or solid colour patterns more typical of buildings in the area. Only basic English spoken. Double room: 200,000 dong.
  • Anh Vy Hotel, 8 An Dương Vương, 84 56 384-7763. Straddling the border between the low- and mid-budget categories, this hotel directly across the street from the beach in the southwest of the city offers rooms which are clean but small and dark. Near Seagull hotel. One of several hotels on the block which cooperate in offering to foreigners semi-scammy tourist services such as plane tickets, car rental, tours, etc. Some English spoken. Double room: 250,000–300,000 dong.
  • Ao Co Mini Hotel, 24 An Dương Vương, 84 98 319-0389. Small low-budget hotel across the road from the city's central waterfront area. Exterior designed like a very narrow German castle. Quirky room decor features lots of floral patterns and garish colours. Rooms not very clean, but adequate for the price. Across the street from Hoàng Yến hotel and a three-minute walk from the up-market Seagull Hotel. Double room: 200,000 dong.
  • Bình Hà Motel, 03/1 Dương 31 Tháng 3, 84 56 382-6198. Budget family-run guesthouse set back in a small alley between the Saigon Quy Nhơn hotel and the shopping centre Plaza An Phú Thịnh. A 3-minute walk to beach. Small, dark, slightly moldy rooms, but offset by the low price and convenient location. No English spoken or understood. Double room: 150,000 dong.
  • Hải Yến Tourist Guest House, 104 Hai Bà Trưng, 84 56 382-2480. Budget hotel offering reasonable value for price. Old, but well-maintained and clean. Friendly, but almost no English spoken. Double room: with window 230,000 dong; smaller windowless rooms: 180,000 dong.
  • Nhon Hai Beach Hostel, Nhon Hai Village (end of the beach), 84 981588826.
  • Phương Mai Hotel, 254 Nguyễn Thị Định (near intersection with Chương Dương). Low-budget guesthouse in the southwest of city offering good quality for the price. Quiet nondescript neighbourhood, with a 4-minute walk to beach. 25 minutes by foot to Coopmart. Owner manages several hotels, speaks good English after living five years in San Francisco and very good Japanese after studying medicine in Tokyo for 10 years. Double room: 150,000–200,000 dong.
  • Quy Hotel, 37 Lê Xuân Tú, 84 56 382-9999. Low-budget hotel on pleasant tree-lined street in centre just off main Nguyễn Tất Thành Street promenade. By foot, the beach is 8 minutes away, the Coopmart 4 minutes. Rooms are dark, old, slightly moldy, and need reform, but adequate for a budget stay for a night. On the top floor is a massage room. The friendly hotel owner lived in Germany 30 years before and still speaks surprisingly decent German and basic English. Double room: with window 150,000 dong, without window 120,000 dong.
  • Thiên Các Hotel, 8 Nguyên Tư (10 m (30 ft) north of Vũ Bão), 84 56 389-2921. Most low-budget of three adjacent hotels directly behind (due west) of the Coopmart complex in centre. A 3-minute walk to beach. Reasonably clean. Typical family-operated guesthouse style. Double room: 200,000 dong.

Srednji razred

  • Đông Tây Hotel, 26 Nguyễn Lạc, 84 56 382-4877. Mid-budget hotel opened at the end of 2015. Directly opposite the beach and offering many rooms with sea views, it's still close to the city centre. The hotel entrance is flanked by open-air seafood restaurants, and a small night-food market is steps away. The Coopmart is a 5-minute walk to the north. Clean, modern rooms with air conditioning, TV, Wi-Fi. Elevator. Basic English understood. Double room: 300,000 dong at normal times, 500,000 during holidays and high season.
  • Eden Hotel, 60 Mai Xuân Thưởng (between Bùi Thị Xuân and Lê Hồng Phong, just around the corner from the Công Viên Quang Trung roundabout), 84 56 625-2233. The only mid-budget hotel in the northeast centre of the city. Rooms are small, but comfortable and clean. Six storeys. Elevator. Karaoke in basement, restaurant on top floor. 15-minute walk to Coopmart or the beach. 3-minute walk from the airport shuttle bus drop-off. Street-facing rooms on top floors have impressive panoramic views over the city, sea and mountains. Only basic English spoken. Double room with breakfast included: 400,000 dong.
  • Hoàng Sơn Hotel, 3 Ngô Mây (30 m (100 ft) northwest of roundabout with Diên Hồng and An Dương Vương), 84 56 384-6916. Standard mid-budget Vietnamese-style family-run hotel. Rooms dark, but clean enough in the southern end of the city centre, a 3-minute walk to the beach and 5 minutes to Coopmart. Double room: 300,000–350,000 dong.
  • Sunflowers Hotel, 13-17 Nguyễn Huệ, 84 56 389-1279. Large Vietnamese-style hotel on a small street 20 m (65 ft) off the beach boulevard at the far eastern end of the city. With its 10 storeys towering over the sparsely populated area at the tip of the peninsula, many of the rooms offer unobstructed views in all directions over the bay, the ocean, the city and the mountains. Vključen preprost zajtrk. Elevator. Double room: 400,000 without view, 450,000 with view. Management is noteworthy for wanting to fill unoccupied rooms, so when the hotel isn't full, walk-in rates can be much cheaper than online booking.
  • Thái Bảo Hotel, 12 Nguyên Tư (20 m (70 ft) north of Vũ Bão street), 84 56 352-0816. Multi-storey mid-market hotel. Most upmarket of three adjacent hotels directly behind (due west) of the Coopmart complex in centre. A 3-minute walk to beach. Outdated Vietnamese-style decor, small rooms. Double rooms: 500,000–600,000 dong.

Splurge

  • [mrtva povezava]Hoàng Yến Hotel, 5 An Dương Vương, 84 56 347-4690. Large 3-star hotel directly on the beach in the southwest of the city. Outdated decor, Vietnamese upper-mid business-class style. Two intact, African elephant tusks are displayed proudly in the lobby. Nine-storey building with impressive views of the sea, the mountains and the city from top-floor rooms. Outdoor swimming pool, indoor and outdoor restaurants offering both Vietnamese and Western food, large conference rooms, sauna. Elevator. Good English spoken at the reception desk. Walk-in rates for double room including breakfast buffet: 990,000 dong (city view), 1,150,000 (sea view). Online booking often 20% cheaper than walk-in.
  • Saigon Quy Nhơn, 24 Nguyễn Huệ (corner of 31 Tháng 3). Multi-storey four-star hotel across from beach. Soaring lobby. Outdated, impersonal decor. Higher—and more expensive—rooms have wonderful city and beach views. Elevator. Swimming pool, spa, and small gym on top floor. English understood. Walk-in rates starting at 1,200,000–1,500,000 for a double room. Walk-in rates often slightly cheaper than online bookings.
  • Seagull Hotel, 489 An Dương Vương, 84 56 384-6377, . Multi-storey hotel on the beach in the southwest of the city. 170 rooms. Dated decor, small rooms, but it's the only four-star hotel in this section of the beach. Many of the rooms offer sea views with balconies. Several restaurants offering both Vietnamese and Western food, rooftop bar, swimming pool, spa, tiny fitness centre, gift shop, travel agency. Govorijo angleško. Website offered in Russian, although no staff speak the language. Double room including breakfast: 1,100,000 dong (city view), 1,300,000 (sea view). Online booking price and walk-in rate generally the same.
  • FLC Luxury Hotel Quy Nhon, Eo Gio, Nhon Ly, Quy Nhon. Along the beach, 900 rooms.
  • FLC Luxury Resort Quy Nhon, Eo Gio, Nhon Ly, Quy Nhon. Along the beach, 96 villas.

Bãi Xép fishing village

The bay of Bãi Xép, a hamlet of Quy Nhơn 10 km (6 miles) south of the city centre, has a total population of a few hundred people, dogs, cats and chickens. There is one lane, a handful of wooden homes, a few people selling rice crackers and gum from their creaking verandas, and a hand-pumped water well which doubles as a rather touch-and-go mini electrical station.

But this tiny fishing village has become an unlikely focus of international tourism in the region. With deserted beaches, hilly islands close to shore, and round wooden fishing boats bobbing in the water, it's an ideal destination to stay if you're looking to get away from it all and enjoy a peaceful seaside holiday. The good and the bad of staying here are the same: there's nič to do except lounge on the beach in utter tranquility.

In an odd twist of fate, the small beach and one-metre wide lane of Bãi Xép is the only place in the entire province where you're guaranteed to find lots of foreigners, and the tiny hamlet is still adjusting to the effects this tourism is causing. Despite some effort by the hotels to minimize their negative influence, it's impossible for 100 rooms designed for relatively-rich foreign tourists not to have a big impact on the environment and the village culture in such a tiny place. And although the hotel managers plead with their guests to respect traditional village ways, tourists shower gifts and money on the local children, which leads the kids—and their families— to lose interest in the fishing life. It's a complicated issue underway right now and it's not at all resolved: there are lots of conflicting opinions from locals, tourists, hotels, and provincial authorities regarding what, if anything, should be done about the situation.

In contrast to Quy Nhơn proper, the hotels in Bãi Xép are all geared towards foreigners. Most of the staff speak fluent English, and many of the managers and workers are foreigners themselves. Online booking is advisable at all times... and an absolute necessity in the peak season. The contrast with the city is also clear in the higher prices: even the low-budget dorm beds in Bãi Xép generally cost as much as—or more than—private double rooms in the city, and at the high end, the tiny fisherman's cove can boast of having the only luxury resort in the province.

Proračun

  • 1 [mrtva povezava]Big Tree Backpackers and Bistro, Khu vực 1, Bãi Xếp, 84 1 635 990 207. Foreign-run backpackers hostel on the beach in the tiny fishing village of Bãi Xép. Offers three simple but clean dorm rooms: one female-only room with private bathroom and two mixed-gender rooms with shared toilets. Shared shower cubicles are open to the sky. Same management as Haven Guesthouse. Single dorm bed from US$8.

Srednji razred

  • Haven Guesthouse, Tổ 2, Khu vực 1, Bãi Xếp, 84 1 635 990 207. Foreign-run guesthouse on the beach in the tiny fishing village of Bãi Xép. Offers four double rooms and one family room. Restaurant (open to non-guests as well) serves traveller-favourite Western fare and some Vietnamese specialities. Shares the same beach with Life's A Beach Guesthouse, which sits on the opposite side of the one-metre wide alleyway. The luxury Avani Resort lies on the same cove and beach about 100 m (330 ft) to the south, although its end of the beach is private and off-limits to non-guests. Rooms at Haven: 700,000–1,000,000, minimum stay two nights.
  • 2 Life's a Beach Guesthouse, Khu vực 1, Bãi Xếp, 84 1 62 993-3117. Guesthouse on the beach in the tiny fishing village of Bãi Xép. Run by two Englishmen. Offers bamboo beach houses, beach-view bungalow, treehouse and dorm beds. Shares the same beach with Haven Guesthouse, which is just on the opposite side of the one-metre wide road. Avani Resort is on the same cove and beach about 100 m (330 ft) to the south, although its end of the beach is private and off-limits to non-guests. Private house at Life's a Beach for two people: from US$30. Single dorm bed: $7 (budget) and $10 (luxury room with air conditioning).

Splurge

  • 3 Avani Quy Nhơn Resort & Spa, Ghenh Rang, Bai Dai Beach, 84 56 3840 132. Luxury resort on the private Bai Dai Beach run by the Avani Hotel Group of Thailand. Previously known as Life Resort, the Avani is the most luxurious hotel in the Quy Nhơn area. 63 rooms and suites. Restaurants with Western and Vietnamese fare, open-air bar, swimming pool, spa offering massage and facial treatments, yoga pavilion, billiards. Entrance to Avani is on the main road 400 m (0.25 mi) south of the turn-off to Bãi Xép village. Avani shares the same cove and beach as Haven Guesthouse and Life's a Beach Guesthouse 100 m (330 ft) to the north, but the beach is divided and Avani's side is private and off-limits to non-guests. Standard suite from $180, deluxe suite offering closet and sofa from $230.

Povežite se

Internet

Covered in a haze of cigarette smoke and usually jammed in the middle of a family's living room and kitchen, hundreds of houses on almost every street of the city have desktop computers you can use for high-speed internet access at low prices. Their customers are almost exclusively local teenage boys playing video games day and night, but you're welcome to use the computers for web browsing. Vsi računalniki imajo stare in nezakonite, a funkcionalne operacijske sisteme Windows, spletne brskalnike in slušalke za video klice. Mnogi imajo celo nameščen Photoshop (spet nezakonite kopije), Microsoft Office in drugo programsko opremo. Ena ura uporabe je 3.000 dongov.

Če imate svoj prenosnik ali pametni telefon, do povezave ne boste več oddaljeni le nekaj minut hoje, saj skoraj vsaka kavarna in restavracija v mestu ponuja brezplačen dostop do brezžičnega interneta za stranke. Hitrost povezave je enakomerno zelo hitra in ni omejitev prenosa.

Telefoni

Območna koda za stacionarne linije Quy Nhơn je 056. Če želite poklicati izven Vietnama, dodajte kodo države in spustite 0: 84 56 XXX-XXXX.

Vsa glavna mobilna omrežja zagotavljajo odlično pokritost tako za lokalno kot mednarodno komunikacijo. Kartice SIM lahko kupite v kateri koli telefonski trgovini ali majhnem kiosku na ulici. Konkurenca med prevozniki ohranja cene še nižje kot v večjih vietnamskih mestih. Posebne ponudbe prihajajo in odhajajo vsak teden, vendar je tipična vnaprej plačana ponudba za en mesec 50.000 dongov za 10 GB interneta in vključenih 75.000 dongov za klice in sporočila. Dokumentacija ni potrebna in vse kartice so vnaprej aktivirane.

V mestu ni javnih telefonov.

Pojdi naprej

Da Nang (Đà Nẵng) - peto največje mesto v Vietnamu. Turistom znan po svojih plažah, zgodnji zgodovini Champe in udobju kot osnova za raziskovanje Hội An in Mỹ Sơn. 300 km (185 milj) severno od Quy Nhơn.

Hội An - dobro ohranjeno trgovsko pristanišče med 15. in 19. stoletjem, priljubljeno med tujimi turisti in ga je UNESCO počastil kot svetovno dediščino leta 1999. 290 km (180 milj) severno od Quy Nhơna.

Moj sin - ruševine Cham iz 4. – 14. Stoletja. Unescova svetovna dediščina velja za najdaljše naseljeno arheološko najdišče v Indokini. 300 km (185 milj) severozahodno od Quy Nhơn.

Nha Trang - cvetoče obalno letovišče, priljubljeno med mednarodnimi turisti. 220 km (135 milj) južno od Quy Nhơn.

Pleiku - majhno srednješolsko mesto, ki je bilo med vietnamsko-ameriško vojno kritično za obe strani zaradi svoje strateške lege. 160 km (100 milj) vzhodno od Quy Nhơn.

Ta vodnik po mestu Quy Nhon ima vodnik stanje. Vsebuje vrsto dobrih in kakovostnih informacij, vključno s hoteli, restavracijami, znamenitostmi in podrobnostmi o potovanju. Prosimo, prispevajte in nam pomagajte, da to naredimo zvezda !